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Cortina is the most Italian of Italy's ski destinations, a dreamy, scenic place which has managed to preserve its peculiar, unexpected charm. Servane Giol, author of a new book on Cortina, The Queen of the Dolomites - Living in Cortina d'Ampezzo, shares her favorite places and spaces in the beautiful mountainous region.
TRAVEL TIPS BY SERVANE GIOL | CABANA TRAVEL | 25 OCTOBER 2024
Servane Giol, photographed by Mattia Aquila. Servane's book, The Queen of the Dolomites - Living in Cortina d'Ampezzo, is published by Marsilio Arte.
Cortina, an Italian ski resort only an hour from Venice, mystified French national, Servane Giol, when she first visited the mountainous region. She found a very different, almost exotic, cuisine compared to the Venetian dishes she was expecting, and a local dialect that was often incomprehensible, even to Italians.
And how to explain the locals' habit of wearing Tyrolean costumes? And the absence of traditional chalets, with wooden façades, despite the scenery that fully corresponds to the dreamy imagery of snow-capped mountains and winter sports? Four hundred years of Tyrolean rule have left their mark, giving the extra touch of charm to a place already favoured by one of the most scenic locations in the world.
Interior, Cortina; The Queen of the Dolomites © Mattia Aquila
Ernest Hemingway's room at the Hotel de la Poste © Mattia Aquila.
Interior, Cortina; The Queen of the Dolomites © Mattia Aquila
Interior, Cortina; The Queen of the Dolomites © Mattia Aquila
Interior, Cortina; The Queen of the Dolomites © Mattia Aquila
The family room at the HOTEL de LËN.
HOTEL de LËN, a spa with a view.
Where to Stay
Hotel de La Poste: Hemingway's signature can be found on the registers of almost every historic hotel here, and on this one the caption reads ‘where we were happy’. This is where the writer had his fateful meeting with Fernanda Pivano, probably while they were both drinking a Rossini or Gin & Tonic. Hotel de La Poste is still much more than a place to sleep, it is the beating heart of Cortina, where everyone meets for an aperitif. The bar has a remarkable coffered ceiling, from which hang ‘lusters’, curious traditional lamps with a half-man, half-animal appearance. And Hemingway's room is still intact: you can sleep on his bed, next to the typewriter.
HOTEL de LËN: It is difficult to find facilities at a time when many hotels are closed for renovations in preparation for the Olympic Games. This modern hotel is not in need of renovation, and will welcome you in its beautiful and majestic structure.
A chalet in Cortina, photographed by Mattia Aquila for The Queen of the Dolomites - Living in Cortina d'Ampezzo by Servane Giol; Marsilio Arte.
Where to Eat
Dolomiti Lodge di Claudio Alverà: This is the right place if you want to enjoy traditional Tyrolean cuisine in Cortina: it offers the best spätzle and knödel.
Jaegerhaus Agriturismo Ghedina: This working farm, just 10 minutes from the slopes, is ideal for meat, and is a spot favored by ski champion, Kristian Ghedina.
Sci Club 18: Since it is a sports club, entry is reserved for members only... My advice is to make friends with one, so you can dine on the most beautiful terrace in Cortina! It is also very pleasant for the traditional decor, and for the spontaneous moments of conviviality that are created before and after the races.
Ristorante Leone e Anna: Surprisingly, a place for Sardinian cuisine. Quite a relief when one has had enough of Alpine cuisine and is craving something lighter!
Pasticceria Lovat: Here I get raspberry cakes for summer birthdays, and sacher torte for winter birthdays. The most curious cake, however, is another: the wedding cake of the people of Cortina, which resembles a crown of bread with candied sugar on top.
To this day, it is still the gift that brides give to their groomsmen at the weddings. This pastry shop has never changed since the 1950s, nor has its counter, and the display cases are crammed with tempting cakes.
The Sci Club 18 clubhouse dining room. © Mattia Aquila
Pasticceria Lovat. The dining room of this house was painted entirely in folk style by an artist, an aunt of the owner. © Mattia Aquila
The interior of the Sci Club 18 clubhouse with the historic logo and the many trophies won by members. © Mattia Aquila
Spätzle bianchi. Recipe by Claudio Alverà, Dolomiti Lodge, Alverà family. © Mattia Aquila
Patate all’Ampezzana. Recipe by Claudio Alverà, Dolomiti Lodge, Alverà family. © Mattia Aquila
Where to Shop
Cooperativa di Cortina: Everything can be found here. Upon entering you will find, in succession, the delicatessen department, the bookshop, a shop for dog treats and everything you need for school. But in addition to the useful, you will also find the delightful. The property has focused on local handicrafts, which offer beautiful traditional pieces for both clothing and home furnishings.
Franz Kraler: This boutique in Corso Italia sells the best Tyrolean clothing.
Magamaison: A home accessories shop with a truly sophisticated, impeccable selection. The owner has an endless knowledge of Cortina, but for her shop she has chosen to display not only local craftsmanship, but from all over Italy.
What to See and Do
Walk to Valcastello, Dobbiaco: The only fault I can find with Cortina is its popularity; there are days when it really seems to be taken by storm. Walking to Dobbiacco is a wonderful escape 'off the beaten track', and it is a less obvious choice than the classic ‘old railway’ walk, which is popular with everyone because the path leads past the most beautiful houses.
Visit the Ice Stadium: Learning to skate seems like an old-fashioned activity, but it is actually very pleasant to try it inside this megalith inherited from the 1950s Olympics. In winter, it is possible to watch hockey matches too.
ENIT (Ente Nazionale Italiano del Turismo) advertising poster from the 1920s. Courtesy of the Zeno Archives.
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