Brazil-based photographer, Tinko Czetwertynski shares his favorite places to eat, shop, soak up culture and dance Samba in Brazil's excitable 'second city', Rio de Janeiro.

 

BY TINKO CZETWERTYNSKI | NOVEMBER 2022

Rio's famous Copacabana Beach; Image courtesy Belmond.

 

With its world-famous carnival - the spirit and joy of which seems to infuse the city with a fizzing, excitable energy all-year-round - historic house museums and easy access to both beaches and forests, Rio de Janeiro is a great gateway into Brazil.

In just a day, you can experience natural wonders, like the Horto Waterfalls, alongside Rio's best beaches and a packed cultural itinerary. Here, Tinko opens his insider's address book and shares his Rio highlights. 

Where to Stay

Copacabana Palace, Copacabana: For timeless, old-world charm, legendary parties and an exceptionally photogenic, atmospheric swimming pool, Copacabana Palace is the place to stay in Rio: a quintessential heritage hotel, conjuring all the romance and glamour of a bygone era. Its excellent restaurants, two of which are Michelin-starred, and elegant poolside bar are perfect for people watching and dining alike.

What to See & Do

Fundação Roberto Burle Marx: The former home of renowned Brazilian landscape architect, Roberto Burle Marx - particularly famous for his iconic Copacabana sidewalk - who used his property as a laboratory to study and produce tropical plants. Book a guided visit of the historic house and gardens.

Santa Teresa: Take a stroll through Santa Teresa, a traditional hilltop neighbourhood next to Rio’s historic downtown area. You'll find faded grandeur at its best - decrepit facades that hint at the stories behind the walls - and beautiful views. Make sure you book a table for lunch at Aprazível (see 'Where to Eat').

Instituto Moreira Salles, Gavea: A beautiful modernist property in the hills of Gavea, home to an intriguing photography collection.

Casa Roberto Marinho, Dona Marta: A newly-opened house museum, this is the former home of one of Brazil’s most affluent families and holds their important collection of Brazilian and international art.

Parque das Ruínas, Santa Teresa: In the park, you'll find the former home of Brazilian heiress, Laurinda Santos Lobo – a patron of the arts whose house was a meeting point for Rio's intellectuals and artists until her death in 1946. It's now a house museum, with a small collection of artworks, in an elevated position with stunning views.

Inclusartiz Cultural Center, Saude: Also a patron of the arts' project, this historic house hosts art exhibitions and events in a beautiful setting. Very respected in the Brazilian art world.

Where to Eat

Casa Nossa, Santa Teresa: A French-owned taverna where you can enjoy samba.

Aprazível, Santa Teresa: Serves delicious, organic Brazilian food in an outdoor treehouse-like setting, under dried palm leaves, looking out over Rio and a beautiful stretch of Guanabara Bay.

Otoque, Humaita: Rio’s new, and already highly appreciated, fusion restaurant from chef Alberto Landgraf.

Sushi Leblon, Leblon: Brazil boasts the biggest Japanese community outisde Japan, so sushi is practically a national dish. Book at Sushi Leblon to try their seared foie gras sushi and get a glimpse of Rio’s gilded young (and not so young)’s flirty antics.

Where to Shop

Pinga, Ipanema: A São Paulo classic that recently opened in Rio. You'll find some of the best up-and-coming local designers, curated by Gabriella Pachoal and Catharina Tamborindeguy

Ju Gastin, Ipanema: Inspired by brazilian heritage and craftsmanship, Ju Gastin creates beautiful handcrafted objects and furniture.

Saturday Antique Market, Lapa: A sprawling market on the first Saturday of every month where you can find real gems among the hundreds of stalls.

 

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Tinko Czetwertynski is a European photographer, based in Brazil | Follow his Brazilian adventures on Instagram, and see more of his work via Beirut Love.

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