CRAFT STORY | EUROPE | UK | LEATHERWORK
Church's | Shoemakers
Founded in 1617 in Northampton, a town with an almost thousand-year tradition of British shoemaking, Church’s stands as a symbol of heritage craftsmanship and quintessentially English elegance. Known for its meticulous production process — a pair of shoes typically undergoes some 270 steps — the brand blends tradition with innovation, from introducing the first right and left shoes in the 1880s to preserving Victorian techniques today. With roots in a centuries-old family business and an impressive reputation, Church’s continues to craft footwear that reflects both refined English style and an unwavering commitment to artisanal merit.
From their classically graceful logo to their well-crafted loafers and brogues, English shoemakers Church's conjure history, quality and timeless tradition. Their advertising campaigns, often set in imposing manor houses or grand English parks, contribute to this impression, as do the shoes themselves, all of which possess elegant names and sartorial details.
Founded in 1617 by shoemaker Anthony Church, Church's began life in Northampton, England, a town known for its flourishing shoemaking industry. Two centuries later, Anthony Church's great-grandson, Thomas, turned the family business into a globally recognized brand. A generation later, Thomas's son, William Church - driven by the same entrepreneurial spirit as his father - introduced a revolutionary innovation: the concept of the right and left shoe (sold under the ‘Adaptable’ model, available in different materials, widths and half sizes), which won the Great Exhibition of 1881.
Other brand milestones date back to the 1920s: the first women's shoe, the conception of the famous Shanghai model, and the opening of boutiques in London and New York. Yet these are all but a sketch of Church's fascinating path to success and discovery, forged over centuries. Interesting insights and unexpected information await anyone who wants to dwell on a particular model (the Amberley shoe for example takes us back to the Swinging Sixties, while Consul to the diplomatic circles of the post-World War II period). More exciting still, is the end of this story, namely the present day in which Church's preserves tradition and safeguards ancient techniques.
Typically, a Church's shoe goes through about 270 steps before it is finished, design and planning excluded. The shoemakers are highly specialized and each takes care of five or six steps at most, hence the absolute precision required at every stage of production. A small inaccuracy in just one of the many actions would be enough to cause a snowball effect with undesirable repercussions.
Craftsman Keith Brady, who has worked for the brand for years and feels "[part of] the family", shares behind-the-scenes insights. For Keith, one of the biggest challenges occurs when external forces require a change in the meticulous, multi-step artisanal process. "It may be that the suppliers who provide us with our working tools or raw material undergo changes, at which point a perfect concatenation of actions, tested for years and on which all the workers are trained to perfection, has to be rethought from scratch. A small change in the eyes of a layman is actually something huge for us."
Keith and his colleagues work in a Victorian building where many of the machines are "older than we are". Their working environment reflects the cozy, familial, and traditional spirit of the company, which values its timeless and enduring appeal. "Compared to how it was when I started, years and years ago, I can't think of any dramatic changes introduced [at Church's]," says Keith.
"Here, a real value is placed on training, and the time required for a handcrafted product is respected and recognized. When someone new arrives, it is accepted as a given that they will need a lot of practice and observation to reach the level of excellence we demand. The only changes I can think of are that over the decades the quality of leather has improved, and that we have put more emphasis on patinas."
Church's manages not to deviate from the past because, on closer inspection, the past is a boundless place. As demonstrated by their incredible archives, which display an astonishing collection of patterns and exotic or unusually treated leathers, the stimuli to draw on is endless.
It is never repetition, but a form of perfectionism.
Words by Sara Pierdonà
Images from Church's
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