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The Enduring Craft of Denim

Kuroki denim mills, Japan © Kuroki, courtesy LVMH Métiers D'Art.

Denim: a universally beloved, versatile material that tells a thousand stories and only becomes richer with time. From its humble origins in 17th century France, evolving from workwear to couture and, now, Cabana covers, it's fair to say denim has come a long way. Its enduring popularity is testament to the craftspeople still weaving and dyeing these threads today, including world-leaders Kuroki, whose fine Japanese denims will soon grace the covers of Cabana Issue 23, in partnership with LVMH Métiers D'Art. 

Denim, as we know it today, is synonymous with effortless style, durability and timeless appeal - not to mention iconic brand interpretations, from Levi Strauss to Vivienne Westwood, which brought the fabric into global public consciousness. As a material, denim is quite unique, designed to withstand years of wear and tear and, very often, look all the better for it. 

Denim only becomes richer with time, agrees Christoph Radl, Creative Director and co-founder of Cabana, which will for the first time be wrapped in fine Japanese denim when Issue 23 hits shelves in April 2025. "Denim is a living, breathing material that tells a story," Christoph writes in Issue 23. "When new, it’s stiff, tough, and almost impersonal, designed for durability rather than character. But as time passes, something remarkable happens...Every scratch, every threadbare patch, every faded hue is a mark of experience — a testament to the wearer’s journey."

Before this now-ubiquitous material became a global phenomenon, denim's origins were a little more humble, born out of necessity and utility. Its roots can be traced back to the 17th century, when French weavers in the city of Nîmes, southern France, began producing a fabric made from cotton and wool. They called it “serge de Nîmes” and were impressed by its strength resilience, well-suited for laborious tasks. Over time, the name morphed into the more familiar term, “denim".

The material’s global breakthrough happened in the US, where it was adopted for its durability. As America expanded westward during the Gold Rush in the 1800s, miners and laborers needed clothing that could withstand their grueling work. Enter denim, with its thick weave and strong cotton fibers.

Then came the turning point in denim’s history: in 1850, German immigrant named Levi Strauss partnered with tailor Jacob Davis in California. Arriving in the US to sell dry goods, Strauss recognized the need for durable workwear. Together with Davis, he patented the idea of reinforcing denim work pants with copper rivets at the pockets and seams. This innovation led to the birth of the blue jean, forever altering the trajectory of denim. Levi's jeans were revolutionary, not only for their durability but also for their comfort and functionality. Soon, blue jeans became synonymous with the American working class, a symbol of hard labor, determination and resilience.

Little did Strauss know that his simple workwear would evolve into one of the most iconic pieces of fashion in history. By the 20th century, denim’s influence had extended beyond the mines and factories, slowly making its way into mainstream fashion via Hollywood. In the 1930s, James Dean and Marlon Brando sported denim jeans in Rebel Without a Cause and The Wild One, introducing denim as an emblem of rebellion and youthful defiance. In the '50s and '60s, denim’s status as a symbol of nonconformity grew, and fashion houses recognized its potential.

Left: The Jeans Museum in Zürich is home to a collection of over 14'000 denim jeans and jackets collected by the Swiss (self-proclaimed) 'jeans freak', Ruedi Karrer. Middle: Levis Big E Jacket, ca. 1960s. © Ruedi Karrer, The Jeans Museum, Zürich. Right: A rare James Dean & Natalie Wood "Rebel Without a Cause", Japan, 1956.

In the late 1980s, Calvin Klein took denim to new heights, embracing it as both a casual and stylish fabric, while brands across the fashion sphere began to experiment with new washes, cuts and designs. Denim's star rose, and has never waned. From Vivienne Westwood's embellished denim corsets and shredded jackets to Gucci's patchwork denim blazer and Roberto Cavalli's embroidered denim and crepe de chine coats, fashion's leading lights have pushed the boundaries of the fabric.

Today, denim is much more than just a fabric — it’s an expression of craftsmanship, history, and style which continues to evolve, yet remains rooted in the artistry of its makers. Few ateliers or denim mills exhibit this better than Kuroki. Founded in 1950 by Tamotsu Kuroki, this Japanese mill has justly earned a reputation as one of the most esteemed denim producers in the world.

In Japan’s Okayama Prefecture, the mill draws on decades of expertise in weaving; Kuroki’s artisans use vintage shuttle looms, ensuring each creation has the distinctive, textured character synonymous with Japanese denim, from the indigo dyeing process to the raw, untreated finish.

All images @ Kuroki, one of the most esteemed denim producers in the world.

The mill’s dedication to precision and authenticity is evident, with world-leading fashion houses, including LVMH Métiers d'Art, using Kuroki’s fabrics in their collections. The French Maison even chose Kuroki denim for its prestigious cover collaboration with Cabana Magazine Issue 23. 

"Denim transcends fleeting trends," says Matteo de Rosa, CEO of LVMH Métiers d'Art. "Its global appeal lies in its inherent versatility, a quality masterfully interpreted by Kuroki, our denim virtuoso within the LVMH Métiers d'Art family. From classic washes to innovative textures, Kuroki's artistry showcases the breadth of denim's potential, solidifying its place not just as a fabric, but as a canvas for enduring style."

"Both Cabana and LVMH Métiers d’Art are deeply committed to preserving and celebrating exceptional craftsmanship and artistry worldwide, he adds. "Showcasing the exquisite denim of Kuroki, with its natural dyeing techniques, on Cabana’s covers perfectly embodies this shared passion. For LVMH Métiers d’Art, securing the future of these unparalleled manufacturers is paramount, and this partnership beautifully reflects our dedication to supporting the artisans who define the pinnacle of luxury."

Today, as sustainability becomes a crucial part of the global conversation, many brands are revisiting their processes, focusing on eco-friendly production and techniques that respect denim’s rich history. From its origins as a durable fabric for laborers to its status as a fashion icon, denim’s journey is far from over. Its enduring legacy is a testament to craftsmanship and creativity, reflecting the skill of those who continue to craft it, stitch by stitch, into the future.

Words by Cabana Editors
Images from Kuroki, The Victoria and Albert Museum, The Met, Smithsonian Institute and The Jeans Museum, Zürich.