A Weekend in Bath

TRAVEL GUIDE | CABANA TRAVEL | CABANA MAGAZINE

Eliza Dabron, one half of design duo Moro Dabron, recently moved from London to Bath. She shares an insider's guide to the historic and exceptionally photogenic English city, from must-visit cultural experiences and exceptional food spots to Bath's numerous design shops and art galleries.

BY ELIZA DABRON | CABANA TRAVEL | 3 AUGUST 2024

A colorful suite at Holland Street Townhouse featuring art by Isaac Bennigson © Will Moss

Where to Stay

The Royal Crescent Hotel and Spa: If you’ve come to Bath for some proper pampering and relaxation, the Royal Crescent Hotel is a special place to stay in one of the city’s most desirable streets, with magnificent views towards the city or over the private gardens. The ‘relaxation pool’ is housed in a beautiful stone building with chapel windows and a door that leads to a peaceful lavender-filled garden.

8 Holland Street Townhouse: Located above 8 Holland Street, in a cleverly restored and designed townhouse with wide triptyque windows, the gallery now offers a place to stay. Each of the three suites has its own character and is uniquely furnished with pieces from 8 Holland Street's art collection. A sumptuous Plain English kitchen provides an ideal spot for guests to gather for a communal meal.

Where to Eat

Landrace Bakery: Arguably the best bakery in the southwest – Landrace is reason enough to come to Bath. Nestled in a tiny shop on Walcot Street, you will be greeted with rows of freshly baked bread, pastries and sandwiches. They offer an exciting, seasonal selection of pastries – rhubarb custard semlor buns, Seville orange friands, perfectly caramelised Panela Pig’s Ears and delicate pastry parcels made with freshly foraged wild Bath asparagus – all made from grains milled in their own stonemill.

Beckford Bottle Shop: Lined with walls of wine and cosy candle lit tables, this bottle shop-bistro offers small plates, cheese and charcuterie boards to accompany their excellent selection of wines. The menu is crafted from local Somerset produce, either from their allotment or foraged by head chef, James Harris. Tip: leave room for dessert – the chocolate mousse with honeycomb and burnt butter ice cream is unforgettable!

Oak: Armed with a Michelin Green Star for sustainability, this plant-based restaurant is unpretentious and atmospheric space with panelled walls, cosy booths and nooks atop creaking wooden floors. The seasonal menu is simple and thoughtful, allowing the vegetables to sing. It's the perfect spot for lunch after visiting the Roman Baths.

Upstairs at Landrace: Up a winding staircase inside Landrace Bakery is an intimate bistro and bar. Small, elegant plates showcasing Somerset’s local produce are aplenty – from silky pasta dishes to cured meats and fresh greens, which change daily on their menus. Deceptively simple but full of flavour and bursting with freshness. Don't forget to order dessert – I highly recommend the Amalfi lemon tart.

Colonna & Small’s: Tucked away from the hustle and bustle, you will find Colonna & Small’s – a must-visit for any coffee lover. The team at Colonna roast their own award-winning coffee beans which they serve in their relaxed, light-filled space. You can often find the owner, Maxwell, here, manning the espresso machine and happy to chat through the ever-changing bean selection with customers.

Where to Shop

Berdoulat: Housed in the front of a unique, masterfully restored 18th-century building designed by John Wood the Elder is Berdoulat – an interiors shop selling English-made furniture and lighting, curated by Patrick and Neri Williams. In a nod to its former life as an apothecary, the shop is lined with wooden cabinetry filled with antique jars and brass scales. Berdoulat also offers a beautifully curated range of homewares - from hand woven willow baskets to delicate terracotta ceramics.

8 Holland Street: A stone’s throw from the Royal Crescent, on the corner of Margaret’s Buildings, is 8 Holland Street, a wonderfully fun gallery and design store curated by Tobias Vernon. The space is a celebration of modern British art – displaying works by Ben Nicholson, Elisabeth Frink and Howard Hodgkin, and ceramics by local makers such as Prue Piper, Claudia Rankin and Dylan Bowen. There is always an interesting mix of Italian and English mid-century furniture and lighting too.

Toppings Books: In a magnificent Georgian building opposite the Bath Abbey, is Toppings – quite possibly one of the most beautiful bookstores in the UK. It is set over multiple floors, lined with handcrafted bookcases and their signature rolling library ladders. Many hours can be spent browsing and taking in the atmosphere, with hands wrapped around warm mugs of their complimentary coffee.

Nām: Directly opposite Toppings Books you will find Nām, a treasure trove of homewares and curios, nestled in a humble townhouse, where upon ringing a little bell, you will be warmly welcomed by lovely owner Sharan. Nām offers a range of delicate handblown Italian glassware, ceramics by Astier de Vilatte and John Derian, scented candles by Cire Trudon, and in fact my own brand, Moro Dabron.

What to See and Do

Roman Baths: No visit to the city would be complete without a visit to the Roman Baths. Constructed in 70 AD, the baths are one of the best-preserved Roman remains in the world. An ideal time to visit is an hour before closing, to walk around as the sun is setting and the torches surrounding the baths are flickering. The museum also houses thousands of fascinating archaeological finds from Roman Britain, my favorite is a gilt bronze head of Minerva dating from the first century AD.

Royal Crescent & The Circus: Head up the hill to take in Bath’s magnificent Georgian architecture. The elegant, curved facades of the Circus and Royal Crescent were part of John Wood the Elder and Younger’s grand vision to recreate a classical Palladian landscape for the city. The pair drew heavily on Britain’s Druidic past, seen in the natural motifs that still decorate the Circus’ facades.

Great Pulteney Bridge & Street walk: Take a stroll across the picturesque Pulteney Bridge, which is lined with little shops, including A.H Hale – the oldest operating pharmacy in the UK. Flanked by incredible Palladian architecture, Great Pulteney Street is a grand thoroughfare commissioned by Sir William Pulteney and designed by Georgian architect, Thomas Baldwin. The walk is particularly magical at dusk, with the golden Bath stone buildings glowing in the afternoon light.

Holburne Museum: When you reach the end of Great Pulteney Street, you'll be met by the impressive portico of the Holburne Museum, a former hotel and the city’s first public art gallery built around the collection of Sir William Holburne. After a visit, you can exit around the back and walk straight through the majestic Sydney Gardens - one of the only remaining 18th-century pleasure gardens in the country.

Francis Gallery: Francis Gallery showcases emerging contemporary art and ceramic works on the ground floor of a striking Georgian townhouse on the corner of the Paragon. The gently darkened floors and original plaster work provide an elegant backdrop to the artworks, which are beautifully curated by Cereal Magazine founder, Rosa Park. Francis Gallery is a testament to Rosa’s impeccable eye.