A Weekend in Marseille

TRAVEL GUIDE | CABANA TRAVEL | CABANA MAGAZINE

A vibrant port on the south coast of France, Marseille is a sun-soaked city that has long been underestimated, writes travel and food writer, Anastasia Miari. She shares an insider's guide to the once-forgotten city, highlighting its cultural diversity, impressive architecture and excellent restaurants.

BY ANASTASIA MIARI | CABANA TRAVEL | 2 AUGUST 2024 

Sitting on the Mediterranean between the Maghreb and Europe, Marseille is one of Europe’s most ethnically diverse cities. In the narrow alleyways and up the steps of its iconic three hills, Algerian and Moroccan communities spill out of tea shops.

The scent of tagine mixes with freshly baked bread in the air as you stroll the streets of downtown Marseille. From Le Corbusier tower blocks to the Grand Basilica Notre Dame de la Garde, the architecture ranges between modernist and contemporary marvels, to impressive examples of architecture dating back to the Byzantine period. On the coast, locals sun themselves on rocks while to south of the city, the Calanques national park offers a welcome respite from the buzz of the city.

Where to Stay

Pension Edelweiss: At the heart of the city, this century-old town house was an obvious choice when Jochen and Veronique Bieger were searching for a building to transform into a six-bedroom boutique hotel. Here, impossibly high ceilings and original features, like dramatic stucco and hexagonal floor tiles, are preserved and off-set with mid century pieces sourced between Paris, Milan and Berlin.

La Traverse: A little out of town near the port of Malmousque, La Traverse blurs the boundaries between art space, creative studio and hospitality. Owner Catherine Bastide has opened up her sea-view attic studio, giving visitors the unique option to stay at the studio overnight and live like a French artist, if only for a few nights.

Hotel Le Corbusier: Designed by the famed namesake French architect in 1952, this is the only hotel in Marseille to be classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. From its color-panelled, brutalist facade to the rooms’ primary-hued cushions and modernist furniture, the hotel - part of the Unite d’Habitation residential block - is all Corbusier. It also happens to be at the entrance to the Calanques national park.

Les Bords de Mer: If sea views are a priority, Les Bords de Mer is one of the best options, with most of the suites in the white 1950s building opening out to their own balcony or private terrace above the water. Expect muted color palettes - the aim of the interior designers was to draw all eyes to the infinite blue beyond - and don't miss the beautiful rooftop bar, perfect for an aperitivo once the sun begins to set.

Where to Eat

Regain: In the trendy Camas neighbourhood, Regain serves fresh, locally grown produce in a contemporary bistro setting. Perch at the chestnut bar or in the leafy courtyard on a balmy evening, and select from small plates celebrating the region's freshest organic ingredients with smart, unexpected flavor pairings, like aubergine, ricotta and blueberries, coriander-spiked grilled octopus or smoked pannacotta.

Tuba Club: At the entrance to tiny fishing village, Les Goudes, with a view onto the bobbing sailing boats and craggy rocks, Tuba Club was formerly a diving club. Now it’s the coastal restaurant to see and be seen at. Chef Sylvain Roucaryol serves up impressive plates of sea bass sashimi, Mediterranean lobster, and oysters, quite literally on the rocks, as locals take a dip in between dining.

Pain Salvator Boulangerie: Named after a 19th-century merchant who made his living from selling grain, Pain Salvator specializes in organic baked goods. You’ll find delicious sourdoughs and seeded wholegrain loaves infused with goodness and enriched with more protein. Even the patisserie uses high quality butter and gourmet chocolate for a guilt-free pain au chocolat two days in a row.

Le Femina Chez Kachetel: No guide to Marseille would be complete without an Algerian restaurant and this one has been here for a century. A humble, low-key spot with plenty of Algerian bric-a-brac and a cave-like interior, La Femina Chez Kachetel counters the established French cuisine with spice-singing couscous (its speciality). It’s a stalwart within the Marseille community and a must-visit.

What to See and Do

Mucem Museum: Celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, the MuCEM is both a cultural and architectural treasure to the people of Marseille. Celebrating and focusing on the cultures of the Mediterranean, the museum hosts a permanent exhibition of ceramics, sculpture, painting and metalwork. Beyond what’s inside, visit for the structure itself. Algerian architect Rudy Riccioli conceptualised the building as part of the redevelopment of the docks, with a ramp connecting the enormous, glass box structure with the 13th century Fort St-Jean on the waterfront.

Cours Julien: Stroll the graffitied streets of Cours Julien and get to the heart of the city’s ‘trendy’ neighbourhood, populated by bars and al fresco dining spots. It’s at Cours Julien that you’ll find the best vintage shopping in the city, between old book stores, organic wine shops and the inevitable fancy Savon de Marseille vendors.

Calanques National Park: The coves and cliffs of the Calanques expand between Marseille’s arrondissements in the south and Cassis. A limestone wonder of caves, miniature fjords, underwater gardens and fairytale turquoise waters set the perfect scene for kayaking, hiking and diving just a 20-minute drive from the city center.

Le Pavillon de la Reine Jeanne: Located south of down town just above the port of Malmousque, this mansion home built in the 1900s has been transformed into a gallery space for local artists. With the sea as a backdrop, La Pavillon de la Reine Jeanne is now home to Galerie Pentcheff, which specializes in 19th and 20th century paintings in the most picturesque location of the city.

Where to Shop

Maison Empereur: A trove of wonders, Maison Empereur has been a stalwart in the city for household goods since 1827. Spanning 1500sqm of retail space (still in the original building) and 11 departments, France’s oldest business is run by the same family and offers a collection of culinary wear to delight any home cook. Visit also for cologne, fabric, tableware, wooden toys, handwoven baskets and textiles.

Maison des Nines: A cute cafe-boutique between the old port and the Camas district, Maison des Nines is a great spot for expertly curated clothing and jewellery from small brands around France. The collection includes relaxed pieces for men and women imbued with the sort of chic insouciance only found in French ready-to-wear. Most interesting is the selection of perfume, created and bottled locally.

Super Cools Wine: Located in Cours Julien, Super Cools Wine is the spot to pick up the bottle of wine you loved at dinner. Offering an impressive selection of mainly organic wines and some crafts beers and spirits, the store - a casual set up of exposed brick, wood chip panelling and plywood shelves - also doubles up as an exhibition space and occasional pop up store, hosting multiple events each month.

Ensemble Books: Curated by Loose Joints publishers and design studio, this book store focuses exclusively on photography books. A stroll away from the old port, its bare bones poured concrete space leave the books and their images to do all the talking.