A Weekend in Palma

TRAVEL GUIDE | CABANA TRAVEL | CABANA MAGAZINE

Often overlooked by Mallorca's beaches and villages, lively Palma - with its historic architecture, abundance of art and thriving food scene - is a must-visit destination, says Spain-based writer, Elizabeth Bennett. She shares an insider's guide to Palma's hotspots and hidden treasures.

BY ELIZABETH BENNETT | CABANA TRAVEL | 25 JULY 2024

Patrimonio Nacional, Palma, Mallorca © Patrimonio Nacional 

With its sprawling boat stacked harbor and mammoth sea-facing cathedral, Palma is hard to miss as you fly over Mallorca. On closer expectation, the capital of the biggest Balearic is a fascinating architectural mix, with Gothic and Arabic styles sitting alongside Catalan Modernism and contemporary buildings.

Alongside this patchwork history, Palma has world class art galleries and a flourishing design scene to enjoy in between the creative eating and drinking options that maximize all this Mediterranean island has to offer.

Where to Stay

Portella: From the team behind the much-loved Casa Bonay in Barcelona, this 17th-century palace has been transformed into a 14-bedroom hotel that feels both classic and contemporary in design. The rooftop boasts views of the cathedral and there is a hammam in the former pottery ovens.

Palma Riad: This decadent adults-only hotel brings a touch of Morocco to Mallorca with its dark color palette and indulgent details like oversized bathtubs, candelabras and velvet draped curtains.

Sant Francesc Hotel Singular, Palma: In the heart of the historic quarter of Palma’s old town, in the peaceful Sant Francesc plaza, is a stylish hotel with a wonderful rooftop terrace and a pool overlooking a 13th century church.

Nobis Palma: The Stockholm based hotel company alongside celebrated Swedish architect firm, Wingårdhs have reworked this 1000-year-old building with the lightest of touch to create a calm and elegant space that maximizes original details like vaulted ceilings and grand archways.

Can Alomar: A former 19th century palace, this sumptuous boutique hotel sits on the doorstep of Palma’s chicest shops and galleries. Retaining much of the elegance and splendor of the original building, Can Alomar is a haven of peace and its rooftop restaurant, De Tokio a Lima, is a delightful oasis.

What to See and Do

Fundació Miró: In this serene spot, on the outskirts of Palma overlooking the Mediterranean sea, Catalan artist Joan Miró spent the second half of his life. Today, you can visit his two studios, which now make up a museum alongside an additional building by architect Rafael Moneo, and a stunning landscaped garden. The foundation looks after around 7000 of Miró’s works.

Es Baluard: This art gallery offers a mix of modern classics - Cezanne, Gauguin, Picasso - alongside rotating exhibitions from local and international artists. The location is equally impressive with the modern structure built into the 16th century city walls. Don’t miss the walk atop walls accessed from the gallery’s upper floor.

Banys Àrabs: Built during Palma’s Islamic era, this 11th century Arab bath house has been beautifully preserved. Alongside the gardens, it’s a lovely and relaxing spot to spend some time, especially if you’re looking for somewhere cool during summer.

Palau de l'Almudaina: Opposite Palma’s towering cathedral, this Islamic fort turned royal palace is both Moorish and Gothic in style. The terraces offer sweeping views to sea while the rooms are lavishly decorated.

Fundación Juan March: This handsome 17th-century mansion houses a permanent collection of 20th-century Spanish art and serves as a cultural hub with free events.

1912 Ferrocarril de Sóller: For an afternoon excursion outside the city, jump on this historic wooden train as it trundles through the orange groves and up into the Tramuntana Mountains towards the pretty town of Sóller.

Patrimonio Nacional, Palma, Mallorca © Patrimonio Nacional

Where to Eat

La Rosa Vermuteria: Covered in tiles with high stool seating and garlic garlands strung above the bar, La Rosa Vermuteria has a quintessentially Spanish aesthetic and a cozy, familial atmosphere. The menu leans classic too with dishes like padron peppers, boquerones and patatas bravas, plus excellent vermouth.

El Camino: Nab a seat at the bar or long sharing table and enjoy El Camino’s modern take on tapas. Essentially creative small plates, the focus is on the island’s best ingredients whether a baby gem, anchovy and pancetta salad or corvina ceviche.

Fornet de la Soca: In Mallorca, ensaïmadas are a must-try and this beautiful bakery with its forest green facade is the place to go. This famed spiral-shaped pastry, which can be made sweet or savoury, makes a great breakfast or pick-me-up.

Hotto: This new Tokyo-inspired coffee shop borrows a Japanese approach for both its minimal aesthetic and artisanal brewed beverages.

Cafe Riutort: A cosy cafe off the main Rambla, head here for excellent coffee and a great menu of simple brunches and lunches, celebrating the seasonal and local.

Rikito: Palma has a strong international food scene and the neighborhood of Santa Catalina, adjacent to the old town, is filled with restaurants serving up different cuisines. With its modern Italian menu and colorful interiors, Rikito is a favorite.

Thomas Bakeshop: Palma's produce stories are perfect for picnic lunches. For artisan bread and pastries, Thomas Bakeshop should be your first stop.

Where to Shop

Viti Vinci: A Mallorcan-born fragrance brand, Viti Vinci grows their ingredients on the island and picks them by hand in line with natural cycles. In their beautiful store you can experience their hard work via perfumes, diffusers and candles.

Bazaar Palma: An abandoned antique bookstore turned into a treasure trove of beautiful objects for the home across ceramics, glassware, textiles and more.

Alpargatería La Concepción: Espardenyes (commonly known by their French name espadrilles), originally came from Spain and are a staple all over the Balearics. This shop is stacked high with both classic styles and those with a modern twist.

Mimbrería Vidal: If it’s a traditional wicker basket bag you’ve got your eyes on, this third-generation business in operation since 1925 is the authentic shop to turn to.

Antique Hunting: If you're serious about second-hand, it's worth driving half an hour outside Palma for the Sunday flea market, Rastro de Consell - the biggest and best on the island. Similarly, Calvia Antiques’ sizeable showrooms in Santa Ponça are worth travelling for. In Palma itself, Antiguitats Bonet is one of those charming small antique shops stacked head to toe where some digging is required to reveal some treasures, while In Progress and MÓN S. XX have slightly more curated edits.

Cortana: Dreamed up by Mallorcan designer Rosa Esteva, and inspired by the island itself, the Palma flagship of this sustainable fashion brand is a good chance to see and shop these fresh and feminine pieces all made from natural fabrics.