A WEEKEND IN | CABANA TRAVEL | CABANA MAGAZINE
Oscar Wilde famously wrote of San Francisco: "It must be a delightful city and possess all the attractions of the next world.” For California-based writer, Parissa Mostaedi, it's no wonder this 'City by the Bay' has captivated the imagination of so many. It has everything, from cultural heritage and diverse architecture to evocative landscapes and excellent restaurants and museums. Parissa shares an insider's guide for anyone planning their own San Francisco adventures.
BY PARISSA MOSTAEDI | CABANA TRAVEL | 29 JANUARY 2025

In his novel, The Picture of Dorian Gray, Oscar Wilde famously wrote: "It is an odd thing, but anyone who disappears is said to be seen in San Francisco. It must be a delightful city and possess all the attractions of the next world.” My own fascination with San Francisco begins with its cultural history, distinctively diverse architecture, and evocative landscape.
This mesmerizing city casts an effortless spell with its ever-present blanket of fog hovering over the Golden Gate Bridge, the Victorian homes lining the steep rolling hills with delicate grandeur, the iconic cable cars gliding along the bustling streets, and the serene beauty of the lush cypresses and pines at the Presidio. It is no wonder that this 'City by the Bay' has captivated the imagination of so many poets and writers. Parissa Mostaedi.
Where to Stay
Four Seasons Hotel San Francisco: Not to be mistaken with the Four Seasons at Embarcadero, the hotel is conveniently located on Market Street and within walking distance of some of the city’s landmark buildings and cultural institutions, including SFMOMA. The name speaks for itself when it comes to the ultimate in comfort and luxury. The atmospheric MKT restaurant-bar, featuring elevated California cuisine with locally sourced ingredients, has floor-to-ceiling windows with panoramic views of downtown's historic buildings.
Hotel Drisco: In the prestigious Pacific Heights area, this 48-room boutique hotel in a historic 1903 Edwardian building blends traditional elegance with every modern comfort, from a superb continental breakfast, to wine receptions with local artisan cheesemongers and charcuteries. A short walk from neighborhood cafes, restaurants, and stores, you'll be able to experience the city like a local.
The Fairmont: Atop Nob Hill, this landmark building - one of few to survive the 1906 earthquake and fire - was reconstructed by famed Bay Area architect, Julia Morgan. The upper-level rooms offer stunning views of the Bay or city skyline. Once called the social hub of the city where debutante balls took place, the hotel has a distinguished history. Highlights include breakfast in Timothy Pflueger’s 1933 Art Deco design bar and the Dorothy Draper-designed Venetian Room where Tony Bennett debuted his song, “I Left My Heart in San Francisco. “
Lodge at the Presidio: Built in 1895 in an idyllic setting next to the 300-acre Presidio forest, the Lodge is registered as one of the Historic Hotels of America. Surrounded by 400-years of history, it's a charming 42-room hotel that has maintained its original architecture and restored details. It's the closest hotel to the Golden Gate Bridge, with stunning views from the ‘Chrysopylae’ to the island of Alcatraz and an outdoor patio directly overlooking the San Francisco Bay.
The Battery: A stone’s throw of the iconic Transamerica Pyramid in the Jackson Square Historic District, this members-only club is home to 14 rooms decorated by Ken Fulk. Hotel guests are considered resident members during their stay with access to all restaurant and bars. In San Francisco's oldest area, dating back to the birth of the city and the 1849 Gold Rush, staying here is a wonderful opportunity to explore the neighborhood for a visual sense of the city’s history.
Where to Eat
Maison Nico: Located in the Jackson Square Historic District and next to the Ship Building (once home to Frida Kahlo and Diego Riviera), this French-inspired épicerie and café specializes in the traditional culinary art of pâté en croûte by Michelin-starred chef, Nicolas Delaroque. Maison Nico offers a variety of delectable pâtes, seasonal tarts, and an array of Parisian-style pastries.
Kantine: A Scandinavian-inspired café in the laid-back Lower Haight neighborhood is perfect for a casual brunch: homemade pastries, porridge, grain or protein bowls and a great variety of sandwiches. The Brunch Board is great for tasting some of the cafe's homemade offerings, including granola, delicious rye bread and lingonberry jam. The cardamom buns are to die for.
Spruce: In the affluent Presidio Heights neighborhood, amid an avenue of design and high-end homeware stores, Spruce specializes in modern California cuisine with seasonal ingredients in a warm, elegant atmosphere. The majority of the restaurant’s produce is sourced from a local organic farm in the Bay Area. There is the option of prix fixe menus in the main dining room or a more casual setting at the bar, known for its distinguished wine list and handcrafted cocktails.

Maison Nico, San Francisco © Parissa Mostaedi
Dalida: In historic Presidio with some of the city’s best views, this celebrated restaurant embodies the philosophy of East meets West. Inspired by Istanbul-raised chef Sayat’s background, Dalida celebrates the act of breaking bread with the concept of food best enjoyed when shared. Together with his wife and fellow chef, Laura, Sayat's menu captures the memorable flavors of the region.
The Tailor’s Son: Described as a 'love letter to Italy woven from a different cloth', this neighborhood trattoria is situated in vibrant, upscale Pacific Heights, with a focus on Lombardy cuisine in a casual but elevated setting. With a selection of carefully curated Italian wines and cocktails, it’s perfect for an aperitivo. The Risotto alla Milanese with osso buco is one of its many Northern Italian classics.
Verjus: Tucked away in the center of downtown’s Jackson Square Historic District, this French wine bar and restaurant, helmed by Michelin starred chef Michael Tusk - also the owner of popular hotspot, Cotogna - reinvents French bistro classics with a weekly changing menu and seasonal and local ingredients. Its vibrant red ceiling emulates a lacquered look, reflecting the candlelit tables below and creating a true ‘cave à manger’ atmosphere in the heart of the city.
Where to Shop
The Lost Art Salon: Evoking the spirit of a 20th-century Parisian Salon, and having just celebrated 20 years since its founding, artists Rob Delamater and Gaétan Caron are bringing new life to the work of artists whose names and work have been forgotten with time. Among the many notable names revived at the salon is Paris-born artist Georgette London Owens who studied with cubist painter Andre Loht and was Dali’s inspiration for La Meduse.
John Windle Antiquarian Bookseller: Offering rare books, first editions and manuscripts, and specializing in illustrated material from medieval times through to the 20th century, this store is a treasure trove for bibliophiles and collectors. The highlight is meeting owner John Windle, a British scholar and savant, whose extraordinary body of knowledge never fails to enlighten.
MARCH: An upscale home and kitchenware store, MARCH sells handmade décor items and furniture crafted by global designers, artisanal tabletop accessories, modern tableware, and a variety of high quality kitchen tools and accessories.
Epoca: Located in the vibrant hub of creativity in San Francisco’s Design Center neighborhood, Epoca is an antique store distinguished as “blended eclectic.” It features a uniquely curated selection of 20th-century furnishings alongside traditional antiques and accessories.
Emily Joubert: Owner Judy Sieber named her home and garden store as a tribute to her grandmother, Emily Joubert, who believed beauty is found "in the simple things”. A passionate collector herself, dedicated to quality and craftsmanship, Judy’s store offers a selection of home décor, garden essentials, lifestyle products and tableware, including exquisite block print linens.
Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market: Due to a unique combination of favorable geography and climate, Northern California agriculture has deep roots in the region’s history. Visiting the Saturday Farmers' market at the iconic Ferry Building on the waterfront - with spectacular views of the Bay Bridge - is an uplifting way to start the morning. Enjoy a leisurely walk with a cup of coffee, appreciating the city’s history while taking in variety of locally sourced produce, flowers, artisanal bread and specialty foods.
What to See and Do
Mission Dolores: Established in 1776 by Spanish Catholic missionaries, this modest white adobe church is the oldest surviving structure in San Francisco and the city’s most important historic building. It is an example of early Spanish Colonial Architecture with intricate details and redwood ceiling beams displaying the original Ohlone Indian designs painted with vegetable dyes. Adjacent to the church is the impressive Dolores Basilica, completed in 1918.
Legion of Honor Museum: Currently celebrating its centenary, this neoclassical architectural masterpiece is a smaller-scale replica of Paris’ Palais de la Légion d’Honneur. Considered to be one of San Francisco’s treasured assets, housing world-class art spanning 4000 years, the museum is also home to a Louis XVI jewel-box theater embellished with a vibrantly colored ceiling mural painted by Spanish artist Julio Vila y Prades.
Swedenborgian Church: Built in 1895, this hidden architectural gem sits quietly in the Pacific Heights neighborhood. Designed by architect A. Page Brown, designer of San Francisco’s Ferry Building, it is a National Historic Landmark and described as one of California’s earliest pure Arts and Crafts buildings. Architect Bernard Maybeck began his career here as a draftsman and designed the hand-made mission chairs, crafted out of maple with woven rush seats.
Golden Gate Park Conservatory of Flowers: Built in 1879 in Golden Gate Park, with the renowned de Young Museum and the picturesque Japanese Tea Garden as neighbors, this wood-and-glass conservatory is the oldest in North America. Home to a collection of rare and exotic plants, the elaborate Victorian-style greenhouse, which resembles the Palm House at Kew, is a place to behold.
Coit Tower/ Beach Chalet Murals: The murals at the Coit Tower and The Beach Chalet are the Art Deco symbols of the city. Created under the Works Progress Administration (WPA), a program designed to support artists during the Great Depression, these murals are a must-see for art lovers and history enthusiasts, offering glimpses into California life through bold and evocative imagery.
Chinatown: One cannot visit San Francisco without a stop at its famed Chinatown, the oldest in the country and deeply connected to San Francisco since the city’s birth. Founded during the Gold Rush in 1849, it spans close to 24 blocks and is home to an array of family-owned businesses, including herbal stores, bakeries and specialty markets. It's a hub for exclusive Asian cuisine, which includes the celebrated Michelin-starred restaurant, Mister Jiu’s.