A Weekend in Stockholm

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There is nowhere quite like Stockholm, writes textile designer Cathy Nordstrom. She loves her city’s rich cultural heritage, fantastic museums, clean air, walkable size and pastel-hued buildings. Cathy shares a carefully curated insider’s guide.

BY CATHY NORDSTROM  | CABANA TRAVEL | 18 JANUARY 2024

Stockholm, photographed by Jon Flobrant.

Stockholm has many charms – from its rich cultural heritage to fantastic museums, clean air, walkable size and pastel-hued buildings. The city has an inexorable pull for Swedes who’ve been living abroad, so most return, bringing with them diverse global influences. There really is nowhere like Stockholm.

Where to Stay

Ett Hem: For a beautiful home from home experience, Ett Hem is the place to stay in Stockholm. Built in 1910, the handsome Arts and Crafts building was transformed by designer Ilse Crawford in 2012 and has been a favorite stay ever since. It also has a great restaurant and a lovely courtyard garden.

Prince Van Orangiën: In the historic neighborhood of Djurgården, this 1935 boat serves as a chic, secluded boutique hotel. Recently renovated by designer Eva Köhlqvist, it is run by Lotta and David Zetterström, founders of Fabrique bakery, who run the fabulous Restaurant Slipen next door. A very memorable stay.

Stockholm Stadshotell: Built c.1873, in memory of King Oscar I, historic Björngårdsgatan 23 has been restored and reimagined as a boutique hotel with 32 rooms and a pretty courtyard restaurant. There is also a classically Scandinavian sauna and cold plunge pool to refresh you after a day exploring.

Villa Dagmar: Named after Dagmar Bergsten – an enigmatic ancestor of the owners’ family – Villa Dagmar is charming and personal, with architectural interest too. Neighbouring Östermalms Saluhall (see ‘where to eat’), the hotel is linked to the famous food hall by a glazed courtyard.

Where to Eat

Schmaltz:A tiny gem on a busy street in central Stockholm, this is my favorite for lunch, people watching and a glass of wine. Famous for their Reuben sandwich and delicious soups, they don’t accept bookings, but if you go off rush hours you will always find a space. In summer, they line the street with tables.

Röda Huset: In downtown Stockholm, this ‘modernist red cube’ is well worth a visit. It has great food and friendly staff, but we also go for the extraordinary cocktails. They only use seasonal ingredients, which are often locally produced. The view of Sergels Torg (large public square) at night is pretty cool too.

Trattoria Montanari: The best cozy Italian in town! Run by an Italian-Swedish family, this is the place for authentic, delicious Italian food and ambience. It is always packed with regulars, families and couples, young and old. We love to celebrate birthdays here, the whole staff comes and sings Tanti Auguri A Te.

Östermalms Saluhall: Standing proud in Stockholm for more than 130 years, this wonderful food hall in an historic red-brick building is a real landmark. Its original interiors – dark lacquered wood, hand-painted signs – are still the backdrop for hundreds of bustling stalls and eateries.

What to See and Do

Skansen: The world’s oldest open-air museum is a must-visit. It’s full of historic buildings, houses, farms and shops, all furnished according to the era, and to-die-for murals and textiles. Original houses have been moved here from all over the country; it’s a beautiful insight into Sweden pre industrialism.

Hallwylska Museet: Hallwylska Museet is a spectacular, ornamented palace in central Stockholm. The house belonged to Count and Countess von Hallwyl, but was donated to the Swedish state in 1920, becoming a museum in 1938. My favorite room is the kitchen, as in so many of the Swedish castles.

National Museet: One of my favorite museums, with the most beautiful library. The permanent exhibitions are presented in an accessible way for all ages, from 16th-century masterpieces to modern day design classics. It was renovated a few years ago, involving many of Sweden’s best architects and designers.

Where to Shop

Sjöström Antik: One of my favorite shops in Stockholm. Johan Sjostrom’s knowledge and eye for unique, high quality and slightly quirky pieces really sets this place apart. The range of objects here is extensive, and I promise you will want to go home with pretty much the whole shop.

Mercanti: Run by mother-daughter team, Livia and Sandra (a ceramicist), this tiny shop is another favorite. It sells a mix of Sandra’s ceramics, antiques and textiles – and the best selection of scented candles and perfumes. It’s one of my secrets, but so lovely that it would be a disgrace to keep it to myself

Domino:  With a huge selection of fabulous mid-century lighting and furniture, Domino is well worth a visit. It’s near several other good antique shops, along with museum Sven Harrys Konstmuseum, not to mention the must- see Stockholm Public Library designed by renowned architect Gunnar Asplund.

Cathy Nordstrom is a Swedish textile designer, based in Stockholm | You can follow Cathy on Instagram @studiocathynordstrom