A Weekend in Venice

A city of pleasures and historic treasures, Venice is a must-visit and one of Cabana's all-time favorite destinations. As the city hosts the 60th Venice Art Biennale, the Editors of Cabana and curator Toto Bergamo Rossi share their favorite places and spaces in 'La Serenissima'.

BY CABANA EDITORS | CABANA TRAVEL | 12 APRIL 2024

“Venice, its temples and palaces did seem like fabrics of enchantment piled to heaven," wrote the 18th century poet, Percy Bysshe Shelley. Centuries on, one cannot fail to be enchanted by Venice; 'La Serenissima' is truly a city of pleasures.

Our guide, with travel tips from the editors of Cabana and members of the Big Cabana Family, delivers under-the-radar places you might otherwise miss; Venetian addresses that will sate even the most discerning appetites for food, art and style.

Where to Stay

Belmond Cipriani: Established by Giuseppe Cipriani more than 60 years ago, the Cipriani - now within the Belmond family - is one of the most reliably indulgent, elegant stays in Venice, with an unbeatable location on the Venetian island of Giudecca island and a Michelin-starred restaurant.

The St. Regis: This hotel has been defined by the city’s artistic and cultural legacy for over a century and a half. Beloved by Monet, its position is breathtaking, offering views across the Grand Canal and situated within minutes of Piazza San Marco. Stylishly landscaped gardens offer the perfect setting for an aperitivo to relax and reflect on the day’s discoveries in an elegant, cosmopolitan setting.
 
Hotel Danieli: There's nothing quite like the ‘lobby’ at Hotel Danieli, a storied hotel comprising three palaces: the original Palazzo Dandolo, dating back to the 14th century; Palazzo Casa Nuova (formerly the city’s treasury) and Palazzo Danieli Excelsior, beautifully redesigned by Jacques Garcia. For the ultimate room with a view, go for one of the Jacques Garcia-designed rooms overlooking the Grand Canal.

What to See & Do

Venice offers virtually unrivalled access to world class art and music. From Byzantine mosaics and Renaissance Old Master paintings, to modern art and craftsmanship, the city holds an extraordinary trove of works. Sit in Scuola Grande di San Rocco and gaze in wonder at Tintorettos, or enjoy a truly atmospheric evening of music.

Venice Art Biennale 2024: The 60th edition of Venice's annual Art Biennale runs from 20 April - 24 November 2024. Curated by Adriano Pedrosa, it's titled Stranieri Ovunque ('Foreigners Everywhere'), which derived from the name of a Turin art collective that challenged racism. The expression has several meanings: "First of all, that wherever you go and wherever you are you will always encounter foreigners— they/we are everywhere," Pedrosa explains. Curator Toto Bergamo Rossi, director of Venetian Heritage, highlights his three not-to-be-missed exhibitions:

Willem De Kooning at Gallerie dell’Accademia: This major retrospective explores the late artist's relationship with Italy, and how this influenced his work. 

Eva Jospin at Museo di Palazzo Fortuny: The mysterious, magical quality of Eva Jospin's multimedia works are on full display at Museo Fortuny.

Tintoretto’s Portraits of Giovanni Grimani and 'Rick Lowe: the arc within the arch', both on display at Museo di Palazzo Grimani

Museo Fortuny: Located in the heart of Venice's San Marco district, the Museo Fortuny resides within the magnificent Palazzo Pesaro Orfei (referred to as Palazzo Fortuny). Once the residence and studio of Mariano Fortuny (1871–1949), a man of many disciplines, and his wife Henriette, the museum showcases a remarkable collection of paintings, fabrics, and Fortuny's iconic lamps and designs. 

Galleria Giorgio Franchetti Alla Ca' d’Oro: Regarded as the best surviving palazzo in true Venetian Gothic style, the Ca' d'Oro houses the notable collection of the Baron Giorgio Franchetti, including pieces by Mantegna, Tiziano and Tullio Lombardo. Sculptures, frescoes, tapestries and paintings by Renaissance masters fill the space, offering visitors a true experience of Italian art and culture.

Peggy Guggenheim Collection: Along the Grand Canal stands the elegant 18th century Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, home to the esteemed Peggy Guggenheim Collection. A cultural gem showcasing the transformative power of modern art, this renowned museum boasts a remarkable selection of avant-garde works by leading 20th century artists, including Magritte, J. Pollock, Picasso, Dalí and Kandinsky.
 
Isola di Burano: The Island of Burano, a World Heritage Site famous for its brightly colored houses and age-old needle lace tradition, is a short boat trip from the mainland. Slightly off the beaten path, the narrow streets of Burano provide an escape from the bustle of Venice and promise insights into local delicacies and craftsmanship.

Santa Maria della Salute: Standing proudly at the entrance of the Grand Canal, Santa Maria della Salute is an iconic symbol of Venice's resilience and devotion. Built in the 17th century as a gesture of gratitude for the city's deliverance from the plague, this Baroque paragon charms visitors with its elegant domes and graceful facade, and offers breathtaking views of the Venetian skyline.

Where to Eat

Venice's culinary scene truly offers something for everyone and every occasion, be that celebrated dishes at enduring classics, or via aperitivo and quick bites of traditional ‘cicchetti’ at wine bars dotted around the Rialto market. 

Harry’s Bar: Founded in 1931 by Giuseppe Cipriani, Harry's Bar has a timeless allure, attracting aristocrats and Hollywood royalty. With a reputation for impeccable service and an atmosphere of unassuming elegance, this historic establishment transports visitors to a bygone era of classic European café culture.

Caffè Florian: Stepping into Caffè Florian is like entering a lavish time capsule of Venetian opulence. The grandeur of its Belle Époque-inspired décor mesmerizes with its ornate gilded ceilings, intricate frescoes, and velvet furnishings. Established in 1720, it is one of the oldest coffee houses in continuous operation.

Locanda Cipriani Torcello; Another Cipriani family establishment and located on the serene island of Torcello in the Venetian Lagoon, Locanda Cipriani is a tranquil refuge steeped in history and charm. Established in 1934 by Giuseppe Cipriani Senior, this charming, rustic inn, surrounded by lush gardens and vineyards, offers a glimpse into the authentic Venetian way of life.

Ristorante da Ivo: Deep in the heart of Venice, Ristorante da Ivo is a hidden gem beloved by locals, discerning travelers and silver-screen aristocracy alike. From freshly caught seafood delicacies to traditional Venetian specialties, every dish here is prepared with passion and served with a side of genuine Italian hospitality.

Ristorante Al Covo: A culinary beacon since 1987, Ristorante Al Covo showcases the vibrant flavors of the Venetian lagoon and its surrounding regions. Helmed by Chef-owner, Cesare Benelli, Al Covo offers family-style hospitality and a real gastronomic journey infused with reverence for the land and sea.

Aciugheta: A stone's throw from Piazza San Marco, Aciugheta embodies the essence of a traditional Venetian bacaro dating back to the early 1900s. Reopened by Gianni Bonaccorsi in the late 1970s, this charming place is renowned for its wine by the glass, classic cicchetti snacks, and signature anchovy-topped pizzette.

Where to Shop 

Venice is home to unparalleled craftsmanship and artistry, steeped in tradition. The modern day fruits of artisinal labor can be found in the myriad ateliers and workshops scattered throughout the city.

For a slightly elevated fix of Venetian retail therapy, try these Cabana favorites:
 
For traditional Venetian slippers, or ‘Friulane’ - Piedaterre;
For beautiful textiles – Chiarastella Cattana;
For stunning glass - Laguna B & Nason Moretti;
For Mirrors - Specchi Convessi di Canestrelli.