TRAVEL GUIDE | CABANA TRAVEL | WORLD OF CABANA

Situated between the Loire Valley and the Pyrenees, the Dordogne is a place to which French artist, antique dealer and co-founder of London's Crosta Smith Gallery, Marine Crosta, returns to reset and slow down. She shares her favorite corners of Bergerac and beyond, from village brocantes and riverside picnics to hidden shops and family-run restaurants.

BY MARINE CROSTA | CABANA TRAVEL | 23 OCTOBER 2026

My Favorite Places to Stay

Obviously it would be our own little house by the river, because it is incredibly cozy, my family lives very close by, and we have added a plunge pool in the patio. I can't wait to go back. If I had to book something, it would probably be a B&B in Bergerac town center (so many charming ones, with swimming pools), or at The Relais Chateau Vieux Logis in Tremolat, for something a little more exclusive and special.

My Favorite Restaurant: La Table du Marché 

Unassuming from the outside, La Table du Marché serves colorful, seasonal and delicious food. I like to go there for lunch, and to sit facing the buzzing market hall across the road.

My Favorite Museum or Gallery: CAPC

For a museum fix, I jump on a quick train to Bordeaux. I lived there for 10 years and I always find myself visiting the CAPC, Bordeaux' museum of contemporary art. The curation is thoughtful; I saw my first Anish Kapoor, Gilbert and George, Richard Long – to name a few – there when I interned during my Fine Art studies. It is set in an 1800s warehouse where the original structure and a succession of stone arches remain. It has a church-like quality that invites visitors to quiet contemplation.

My Favorite Cozy Pub or Bar: Madame Pang 

After the museum, I'll catch up with friends and people-watch over dinner al fresco, and head to the cosy Madame Pang for amazing cocktails and dim sum.

My Favorite Antique Store or Flea Market

There are Flea Markets several times a week in the summer in Dordogne, if you aren't afraid of doing a bit of driving. While the quality is inconsistent, we always manage to come across a nice surprise, and it's a great way to discover the 13th century bastide towns, sprinkled all over the map. Monpazier and Eymet brocantes are lovely. Daniel, my partner, once found a beautiful ring for me in a box full of plastic jewellery, for €2.

The best one would be held in the medieval village of Issigeac, around the end of August, where you'll find anything from French country house to Art Deco, glass and silverware, and vintage fabric and linen.

My Favorite Park or Green Space: Pombonne Lake

The Pombonne Lake opened to the public fairly recently. It provides a much needed respite from the soaring temperatures in the area. It's empty in the morning and the water is the most beautiful shade of blue. Nearby, there is a very unpretentious "guinguette" where you will eat the best pommes frites of your life with a glass of local wine on plastic chairs and live jazz if you're lucky.

My Favorite 'Hidden Gem'

There is this little clothes shop in a cobbled street of the old town that seems to have always been there, and that I have always dismissed because of the very bright colors in the window. I walked in once, desperate for a pair of shorts (I always miscalculate the temperature difference between London and Bergerac), and started chatting with the owner. He used to sew for Sonia Rykiel and Jean Paul Gaultier and makes everything himself, using natural fabrics made in France. He didn't have any shorts, but he made me a pair within the hour. I have been returning and buying a piece there everytime I go back, ever since.

My Favorite Café or Coffee Shop: Le Riche

I love sitting "en terrasse" at Le Riche. Its preserved Art Nouveau façade faces my old preschool. It's great for a quick coffee after going to the flea market, or for a dinner outside with friends. Their seafood platter is impressive, fresh and great to share.

My Favorite Way To Spend A Weekend In The Dordogne

I use my trips to Bergerac to reset when things get a little bit overwhelming and loud. Nature, sunshine and good food help me slow down. I leave my city clothes at home and I pack linen, flat sandals and a large basket. I go to the market for a bunch of oysters and beautiful fish, fresh fruits and vegetables that taste like actual sunshine (the tomatoes and the melons are otherworldly).

I choose some delicious wine at a wine cooperative, instead of grabbing a bottle at the supermarket, because they represent and support local wine makers. I also like to pack a picnic and plan a canoe trip down the river with my family. There are little pebble beaches everywhere along the way, where you can stop for a bite, or a nap. And it is SO quiet.