One Hour at The V&A Jewellery collection

MUSEUM GUIDE | CABANA TRAVEL | CABANA MAGAZINE

The Victoria and Albert Museum’s jewellery collection, one of the world’s finest, captures centuries of human artistry and innovation. It is meticulously curated by Helen Molesworth, the museum’s senior jewellery curator, under whose care it becomes more than a display—rather, a chronicle of stories. A few spotlighted items include Queen Victoria’s wedding coronet, Cartier’s Tutti Frutti bracelet and a golden Irish Bronze Age collar dating back to 800-700 BC. Together, these pieces chart the evolution of design, fashions, and symbolism across cultures and eras.

Beyond the glass cases, Molesworth’s dedication extends worldwide. She has traveled from mines to auction houses, enriching her understanding of each pieces journey. For her, the V&A collection is a living narrative, connecting past to present. She shares her favorite pieces, each offering insights into place and people.

The Shannongrove Gorget Collar 800 BC-700 BC (made)

The Shannongrove Gorget Collar 800 BC-700 BC (made) © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

"A must-see. It is an extraordinary Iron Age gold collar discovered in Ireland, one of fewer than a dozen such pieces in existence. This particular gorget, dating back to the 8th century BC, is among the best-preserved examples in the world, possibly the finest. Crafted around the same period as the foundation of Rome (753 BC), it seems almost unbelievable that this goldworking masterpiece was created during the time of Romulus and Remus, the founders of Rome. It ranks among the most impressive achievements of ancient goldwork, especially in Britain.

"This ceremonial collar with two gold sun disks likely held profound symbolism. It is one of only eleven gold gorgets from this era, and its design includes a unique fold at the front—an intentional feature added at the burial—and an intricate rivet mechanism that secures it. I recently had the opportunity to examine it in detail while it was displayed at the British Museum’s Stonehenge exhibition. The ancient technology is astonishing and a testament to the skill of its creators."

The Londonderry Jewels 

Frances Anne, Marchioness of Londonderry. Lent through the generosity of William and Judith, Douglas and James Bollinger © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

"The Londonderry Jewels are my favorites and form one of Britain's most outstanding collections of aristocratic jewelry. Though the collection began in the 18th century, it gained popularity in 1819, when the 3rd Marquess of Londonderry married Frances Anne Vane-Tempest, an heiress of such prominence that her husband took her surname. Her influence captured the admiration of Tsar Alexander I of Russia, who sent her several significant gems now part of the collection.

"Among the collection's treasures are the tiara amethysts, later set by E. Wolff & Co in 1916, and a 140-carat pink topaz and 17-carat yellow diamond—gifts from the Tsar. The tiara and stomacher, made by Garrard in 1854, carry historical anecdotes, with the tiara famously slipping into a toilet at the 1902 coronation of King Edward VII and needing retrieval with forceps! Additionally, Frances Anne purchased a set of turquoise stones herself in Vienna in 1820. These exquisite pieces are visible in her portrait at the gallery entrance, showing her at the coronations of 1831 with jewels sewn onto her dress—a dazzling showcase of this remarkable collection."

Queen Victoria’s Coronet and Case 1840-2 (made) 

Queen Victoria's sapphire and diamond coronet. Purchased through the generosity of William & Judith, Douglas and James Bollinger as a gift to the Nation and the Commonwealth © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

"Queen Victoria’s coronet is a piece that epitomizes our museum’s spirit, capturing a deeply personal and romantic history. Prince Albert designed the coronet for Queen Victoria in their wedding year, 1840, basing the design on the Saxon Rautenkranz from his coat of arms. Created by jeweler Joseph Kitching at a cost of £415, it includes sapphires likely gifted by King William IV and Queen Adelaide."

Portrait of Queen Victoria, 1846 (Print after a painting by Franz Xaver Winterhalter © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

"Victoria herself expressed her love for the coronet, writing in her diaries, “Albert has such taste and arranges everything for me about my jewels.” It’s a stately yet significantly special piece, embodying their love story and connection. Thanks to the generosity of patrons William and Judith Bollinger, this coronet was saved for the nation and placed on display in 2019 to mark both the bicentenary of Victoria and Albert’s birthdays and the gallery’s 10th anniversary."

Cindy Chao’s Peony Brooch (2018)

Ruby and diamond peony brooch by Cindy Chao (2018) named Outstanding Exhibit at London’s Masterpiece, 2018. Given by Yu Hsiang. © Victoria and Albert Museum.

"Cindy Chao’s Peony Brooch is an exceptional modern masterpiece featuring 3,150 rubies totalling 234 carats. The rubies, untreated and from Burma, are set in rich purple titanium with accents of dusty yellow enamel.

"This one-of-a-kind brooch emerged from a private commission, the rubies sourced from an antique necklace, and took over ten years to complete. Each gemstone is meticulously arranged to form lifelike petals, creating the image of a peony—an imperial flower symbolizing good fortune and, for this client, intended to aid health. The Peony Brooch won Outstanding Exhibit at Masterpiece 2018, underscoring Cindy Chao’s vision and artistry."

The Townshend Ring Collection - 154 gems bequeathed to the V&A by the Reverend Chauncy Hare Townshend, a cleric and poet  

"The Townshend Ring Collection is a gift to the V&A from Reverend Chauncy Hare Townshend, a 19th-century English poet, clergyman, mesmerist, and close friend of Charles Dickens. Known for his unique interests, Townshend bequeathed a collection of 154 gems to the museum in 1869.

"Among the treasures are pieces from the famed Hope Collection, including a rare blue diamond—a miniature version of the renowned Hope Diamond itself. Townshend’s gems offer a glimpse into a rich, multifaceted legacy, and his collection remains a cornerstone of our gallery’s historic charm."