Postcard from Cadaqués

POSTCARD FROM | CABANA TRAVEL | CABANA MAGAZINE

Just south of the Spanish-French border in Catalonia’s Empordà, the town of Cadaqués and its surrounding lunar-like Cap de Creus peninsula were once home to Salvador Dalí. Elizabeth Bennett explores the houses and otherworldly landscapes that inspired his surrealist work. 

BY ELIZABETH BENNETT | CABANA TRAVEL | 17 JULY 2024

At Spain’s most eastern tip, on a flat rocky outcrop, Surrealist artist Salvador Dalí found what he described as the ideal place to make his art: “Time goes more slowly and each hour has its proper dimension. It is a unique planetary case."

It is not difficult to see why Dali was so taken by this specific scenery. Largely devoid of trees, the rugged and lunar-like Cap de Creus peninsula is punctuated with inlets that turn the inky water a transparent turquoise blue. After holidaying in the town of Cadaqués as a child, at 26 Dali bought a fisherman’s hut in the tiny hamlet of neighbouring Portlligat where he lived for (almost) the rest of his life.

Since moving to Barcelona 2020, I have made an almost annual trip to the Cadaqués region. Like many people, the original draw was Dali’s house. What’s particularly special is that the house is seen today just as Dali left it when he fled after the death of his beloved wife, Gala, in 1982. It feels like the couple could walk in at any moment with the unfinished canvases in the studio and his original paints and brushes lying by. The house is a trip inside his mind, and a fun one at that.

In his bedroom, a mirror sits opposite the sea-facing window so Dali could watch the sunrise from bed. He wanted to be the first person to see the sun come up in Spain thanks to the house’s easterly position - an interesting insight into the eccentric genius or egomaniac debate that still surrounds him. Beyond Dali's intriguing house, it’s been Cadaqués and the peninsula that keep me coming back.

The main town itself is a charming jumble of steep cobbled passageways lined with whitewashed buildings where blue shutters peak out behind bright bougainvillaea, and all roads lead to the wide harbour where fishing boats dot the bay.

Just 20km south of the French border, people here slip between Catalan, French, Spanish and English, sometimes creating confusing exchanges but mostly a feeling unique to this region. If you follow the coastal walkways from Cadaqués' town centre in both directions, you will reach a number of lovely rocky, sheltered bays with inviting calm water for swimming. Meanwhile, over the hill around 20 minutes by foot to the East, you'll find Portlligat and the Cap de Creus national park.

Cars are banned in the national park and the coves are only reachable by foot or boat. Subsequently, all these calas are pristine, but Cala Jugadora right at the end underneath the Cap de Creus lighthouse is my all time favourite. It’s a tiny patch of sand tucked into one side of a ring of rocks that creates a big bath you can bob about in all day - stopping to lie lizard-like on the side, nude if you want to fit in with the other bathers.

As the sun sets, evenings are spent harbour-side with a vermouth in hand. Compartir, sister of the recently named best restaurant in the world (Barcelona’s Disfrutar), is here, but sometimes all you need is simple things done really well - pan con tomate topped with anchovies, crunchy croquettes or locally caught seafood. Local spots SET and Enoteca do this well. Either way, much like Dali discovered, life in Cadaqués is about slowing down and enjoying every hour for what it is.