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Provence-based photographer and treasure hunter, Joanna Maclennan, has spent years exploring the region's bustling, antique-filled brocantes - truly a Provençal way of life. She shares a curated guide to the best of the rest, a must-read for anyone heading to the south of France this summer.
BY JOANNA MACLENNAN | CABANA TRAVEL | 18 JULY 2024
When I first arrived in France almost 20 years ago, I wasn’t fully aware of the huge passion and way of life of going to flea markets and antique fairs.
It really is a French way of life. There is an art to navigating the flea markets and negotiating is part of it. Sometimes they won’t budge, other times they will, especially if you buy a bundle. They will often raise the prices for foreigners - so, above all, be careful about showing too much excitement for an object. Be nonchalant like the French! It really is a national pastime. It’s like a drug - that joy of finding something special. There are brilliant brocantes to be found throughout the country, but these are our favourite spots for treasure hunting around Provence.
Weekend Markets
Villeneuve les Avignon: In the top five most beautiful antique markets is Villeneuve les Avignon. Just on the other side of the Rhone, opposite Avignon, sits this magnificent town with the Abbayé Saint André towering over the market. It has become a ritual Saturday morning activity for French nationals and foreigners alike. Many finish the morning with a glass of wine and a platter of seafood.
Carpentras: Another favourite weekly flea market is in Carpentras on a Sunday. Under the plane trees in the main car park, the prices are fair and if you have the time either a coffee or lunch at Chez Serge is a must. Carpentras is also a town rich in history and well worth a visit. Every few months there is also the Marché Gare in Carpentras, which is held just outside the town and on a Saturday. We love this too.
Eygalières: In our village, Eygalières, there is a flea market, on the last Sunday of the month, and it is also a great place to visit, walk and have lunch.
Sommières: Another weekly Saturday flea market, and around three times a year they have a huge flea market. It is well worth a visit if you are in or around the area.
Summer Markets
L’Isle sur la Sorgue: ‘The village of antique dealers’ is another good address. While the prices can be more expensive here, a bargain or beautiful piece can often be found. Some of my favorites, which you can follow and get an idea of their stock via Instagram, are: @bernard_durand, @memoires_d_un_ane, @odile_bouscarat, @lartetlamaniere_antiques, @mike_sajnoski, and also La Boutique de Francine.
The village of L'Isle sur la Sorgue also has an International Antiques Fair twice a year with the next one being held 15-18 August 2024; @foire.islesurlasorgue.
Barjac: This small town in the Ardeche holds a huge brocante with around 400 stands twice a year, usually around Easter and late summer (15 August). The dates confirmed for this summer's market are 14-18 August 2024.
Specialist Markets
Déballage: There are also professional antique markets or ‘déballage’ in Avignon, Montpellier & Bezier over three days which we also go to, but for these you must have a business card or buyer’s card. They are more flexible these days though.
Les Puces du Canal: Further afield is Les Puces du Canal in Lyon, another place to visit on a Sunday. Alongside the ‘container village’ for the market, it has great places to eat and drink. It's a lovely way to spend the day. This is not Provence, of course, but it’s a great one to visit, especially if you are driving to or from Provence.
Helpful Resources
To find all the details, and to find other weekly flea markets and car boot sales, we look at these websites: www.vide-greniers.org | www.brocabrac.fr | They are often full of nothing, but sometimes you can find real gems at very reasonable prices.
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