A Weekend in Aix-en-Provence

Provence-born writer Cécilia Pelloux has lived all over the world, but few places have her heart like Aix-en-Provence. She shares an insider’s guide to the historic French city, revealing her favorite brocantes, bistros, book shops and cultural treasures. 

BY CÉCILIA PELLOUX | CABANA TRAVEL | 26 JULY 2025

Historic and colorful Aix-en-Provence © AXP Photography

I was born in Aix-en-Provence, one of the most delightful places in France. The historic city of 'art and water' - the home of Paul Cezanne and watched over by the Sainte Victoire mountain - has long been the capital of Provence. Known for its vibrant art, history, and architecture scene, Aix-en-Provence is timeless and effortlessly chic.

Where to Stay  

Villa Gallici: An 18th-century Provençal mansion nestled among cypresses and plane trees, only a few steps from the city center. Villa Gallici has 23 rooms filled with baroque decoration, antiques and warm colors. I love the atmosphere of this poetic bastide.

Villa La Coste: This property has become a refuge for art and architecture lovers. A 25-minute drive from the center of Aix, Villa La Coste offers 31 villas and suites, some with a pool, ranged along a typical Provençal ‘calade’ shaded by bamboos. Inside, the decor is pure with linen, wood, shades, and a collection of Jean Prouvé’s books. For me, Villa La Coste is one of the most unique properties in the world.

Where to Eat & Drink

Café Caumont Centre d’Art: On the first floor of the art center Hotel de Caumont, in the heart of the Quartier Mazarin, you have an opportunity to enjoy lunch in an 18th-century 'hotel particulier’. The decor is enchanting, and the food is deliciously fresh. Sit outside on the terrace which overlooks a magnificent garden à la francaise.

Café du Palais: Located right on the animated Place des Precheurs, this restaurant is very welcoming and offers a great culinary experience in the heart of the city.

Le Grillon: Founded in 1930, Le Grillon is one of the most well-known places to eat and drink right on the Cours Mirabeau. The brasserie mixes belle epoque elegance with a casual atmosphere. Go in the morning to get a croissant and coffee on the famous wicker chairs; local ambiance is guaranteed.

Where to Shop  

Flower market: My favorite place to get flowers. Held on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays and located on Place de la Mairie. You'll find local plants which vary with the seasons: a colorful Provençal postcard.

Goulard: This independent bookstore on the famous Cours Mirabeau is well known by the locals as it first opened in 1880. More than one million titles are spread across 750 square meters, over three levels. This bookstore is well organized and agreeable; you can sit on chairs and take your time to pick your books.

Maison Béchard: This iconic institution is well known for its pastries and confectionery on the Cours Mirabeau. Founded in 1870 by the Béchard family, it's one of the oldest pastry shops in the city, with everything homemade onsite. Get the Calisson, the specialty of Aix made with almond paste, or the famous icing sugar ‘brioche’.   

Local Market: Held every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday by the Palais de Justice and on Place des Precheurs. Provençal pottery, wicker baskets, lavender soaps, local fruit and vegetables, all kind of olives - it is a feast for the eyes.

What to See & Do  

Quartier Mazarin: Created by the archeveque Mazarin, the brother of the Cardinal, this area is a remarkable example of 17th and 18th-century architecture. It's laid out in a checkerboard pattern, with the Place des Quatre-Dauphins at its heart. Take a walk among its magnificent 'hotels particuliers', which were reserved for the Aix bourgeoisie. Cezanne and Zola attended College Mignet, which is situated in one of its streets.

Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur d'Aix en Provence: The roman catholic church first built on the first-century Roman forum of Aix, it includes Romanesque, Gothic and Neo-Gothic elements, as well as Roman columns and parts of the baptistery from a sixth-century Christian church. The most notable artwork to see is the Burning Bush Triptych, an oil panel triptych painted by Nicolas Froment around 1475-1476.

Pavillon Vendome: This historic monument - now a museum - is the emblem of the refinement of 17th-century architecture and the city of Aix. Nestled in a green garden, its façade is one of the most beautiful examples of classical architecture in Provence.

The Art and Architecture Walk at Château La Coste: Plan two hours to walk among the vineyards. More than 40 sculptures are scattered throughout the property created by the most brilliant architects and artists: Jean Nouvel, Franck Gehry, Richard Serra, Tadao Ando, Annie Morris. A truly unique experience in nature.