Trending now
TRAVEL GUIDE | CABANA TRAVEL | WORLD OF CABANA
In the wild landscape of Greece’s Mani peninsula, a soulful guesthouse makes an idyllic base for discovering the olive-grove paths, crystalline coves, mountain villages and family-run tavernas. Travel writer Kate Lough shares her favorite haunts for the perfect weekend in Kardamyli.
BY KATE LOUGH | CABANA TRAVEL | 8 OCTOBER 2026
As a child I had a recurring daydream. Of a bed outside under apple trees, where I could read all day under the sky with a breeze on my skin. It had a wrought-iron frame, a good pillow and a soft cotton bedspread. On my first morning at Salvia, I sat at a large stone table covered with a blue Ghanaian batik, looking out towards the sea. Feeling a sense of déjà vu as my eyes settled on three such beds whimsically placed under the shadow of old olive trees and tucked in with coloured blankets. My dream, brought to Greece.
Salvia is a small guesthouse in the Mani with a stone tower house and three terracotta rose cottages, walking distance from Kardamili. Created in 2015 by Kalamata-born Aristea Gorgeana on her family’s land, it fits neatly between the foothills of the Taygetos Mountains and a sea that stretches in the distance to Crete.
In the mornings, waking up in my tower bedroom like a Maniat Rapunzel, I walk past the outdoor kitchen, through the olive trees and pungent herbs of the garden and over the rocks for my first swim of the day at Salvia’s ‘piscina’. A silver ladder lowers me into a perfect inlet where the Messinan Gulf’s cobalt waters stay refreshed by underwater springs, topped up by the snowmelt of the surrounding peaks. Nearby a white wooden fishing boat strains gently against its rope. I am utterly alone. Utterly content.
Over kaganias (Maniat scrambled egg, tomato and cheese) and tiganites (a local style of pancake), Kalamata-born Aristea tells me how she pieced Salvia together from flea market finds from Brussels, where she used to live, and Athens, where she lives now. A vintage Swedish stove here, finely painted Bulgarian ceramics there and her father’s dentistry light repurposed as a kitchen light. The result is particular, colorful, layered, expressive. And a soulful launchpad for exploring Kardamyli and the landscape beyond — just as I do during the course of three days, with Aristea as my guide and lens.
Where to Eat & Drink
Elies: Set behind Ritsa beach, Elies is a pretty, olive tree-shaded spot for a late taverna lunch. The plates arrive thick and fast — and generous — so make sure to ask for a paketo to take home any leftover moussaka (excellent) and revithada (chickpeas, also excellent). Afterwards, go for a gin-clear swim over the road as the sun dips.
Palaia Kardamyli: Perfectly combined with the walk down from Agia Sofia (see more below), Old Kardamili is a traditional restaurant set in the old town, next to the well-preserved Mourtzinos Tower. Enjoy the pretty ravine view and order the Messinia area’s well known gournopoula (young pig) with potatoes cooked in the oven.
Lela’s Taverna: For something a little more special, book one of the on-the-rocks-tables at Lela’s Taverna for dinner. The former cook and caretaker of the Leigh Fermor house, Lela opened her eponymous taverna in the '80s, which is now run by her son, Giorgos. You can still find some of Lela’s home cooked recipes such as briam, alongside the family’s own olive oil and locally foraged fleur de sel sprinkled over more contemporary riffs on Greek classics. Order a Lela’s Negroni for the spectacular sunset view.
What to See & Do
The Leigh Fermor House: Part of the Benaki Collection since 1996, the Leigh Fermor house is now part house museum, part research centre and part holiday rental. Designed by architect Nikos Hatzimichalis, the stone property is surrounded by a pebble mosaic by the artist Nikos Ghika as well as an olive grove and the scent of cypress trees and rosemary. Look out for events hosted at the house during the Kardamili Jazz Festival.
Swimming: The coastline heading south from Kardamili is particularly beautiful, with pebbled beaches, rocky coves and exceptional water. Stop first at Foneas, which Italian friends of Aristea have been known to liken to Capri’s Fontelina thanks to its rock formations. The Cantina just above does a great from-scratch souvlaki. Then continue onto Delpinia, one of the loveliest beaches I've visited in Greece. An old stone path leads down to a wide sweep of gentle pebbles, clear emerald water that is protected from the wind and guarded by olive trees. Bring your own aperitivo and stay until sun down.
Hiking: The Mani is known for its excellent hiking routes, with many surrounding Kardamili. Depending on how hot it is, or how much you want to exert yourself, ask a local how to tackle either: the four-hour hike from Exohoria to Old Kardamyli via the Vyros gorge and the abandoned Monastery, or shorten it to the gorgeous (and easy) hike down from Agia Sofia to Old Kardamyli. The latter is particularly beautiful during the last golden hours of the day, each twist and turn of the old stone path revealing different views of far off Maniat towers.
Road tripping: With its coast-hugging road and winding tracks up into the mountains, the Kardamili area is ripe for exploring by car. Drive along the water through Agios Demetrios and Agios Nikolaos towards Trahila, an atmospheric village where you can swim off the harbour like locals do and peer into romantic ruins. On the way back, stop at ‘Katafigi’, taking the footpath down to this spiritual, amphitheatrical ‘beach’ where tiered stone levels appear to have slid from above into the sea; before climbing in altitude for a wander around pretty Exohori. On 15 August, the mountaintop village hosts a spectacular panigiri.
Where to Shop
Equinox: In the centre of Kardamili town, you will find old and rare books including English language ones — such as a biography of Cavafy. As well as jewellery, silk scarves in lilacs and scarlett and curated artworks.
Estia: On a cobbled sidestreet of Kardamili towards the sea, you will likely find handsome Giorgos outside of his shop. Head inside to find cotton pareos, handmade ceramics and old postcards and prints of the village — or just a conversation with Giorgos.
Bakery: If driving from Kalamata direction towards Kardamyli, stop for bread supplies in Kambos. You can combine a good dark loaf with a visit to the Church of Agioi Theodori, one of the finest examples of a Maniat church with original wall to ceiling frescoes — and, unusually for the area, always open.
Read Latest Articles
