A Weekend in Lima

A WEEKEND IN | CABANA TRAVEL | WORLD OF CABANA

Dynamic and lively, Lima’s spirit is defined by a melting pot of Peruvian arts and traditions, an effervescent cuisine that has gained world recognition, and the breeze of the Pacific Ocean which underlines its landscape. Rebeca Vaisman, who divides her time between Lima and Barcelona, shares her ideal weekend itinerary. 

BY REBECA VAISMAN | CABANA TRAVEL | 28 FEBRUARY 2026

The Peruvian capital is a place of encounter and contrast. In Lima, the past coexists with contemporary life to such an extent that a huaca (a pre-Hispanic temple) can rise in the middle of a modern and commercial neighbourhood, and colonial mansions and buildings populate the busy city centre. Regional traditions from all over the country nurture the arts, crafts, fashion and vibrant gastronomic scene, with worldly recognized culinary experiences at restaurants like Maido, Central and Kjolle.

Lima unfolds on its shore — being the only South American capital with an outlet to the sea — under a permanently mild climate and a white, flat sky which mainly brightens up during the January to March summer days and has earned the city the epithet of “Lima the Grey”. Its streets, however, can be savoury and colourful. Rebeca Vaisman

Where to Stay © Atemporal, Photo: Andean

Where to Stay

Atemporal: A restored 1940s Tudor-style mansion in a residential area of the Miraflores district, this boutique hotel offers a serene refuge with an eclectic and classic aesthetic. It has six guest rooms, and common areas including a veranda, salon and private garden with open-air dining, so the experience is cozy and charming. You can also book special services, like tailor-made cultural excursions and a shopping guide.

Hotel B: Located in the heart of the bohemian, historic neighbourhood of Barranco, the first Relais & Châteaux hotel in Lima was created on a restored 1914 Belle Époque mansion. This is an arts-boutique accommodation with 20 suites, a signature restaurant, a remarkable rooftop that overlooks the ocean, and a unique essence marked by its extensive contemporary art collection and connection to Lima’s art scene.

Country Club Lima Hotel: In the traditional neighbourhood of San Isidro, this centenary building opened in 1927 as the most exclusive country club in the city, and became the second oldest hotel in Peru. The Duke of Windsor, Charles de Gaulle and Ernest Hemingway were among its famous guests, and the hotel holds its glamorous past dear, while offering a contemporary, stylish stay. The English Bar prepares one of the best pisco sours in the city while Perroquet restaurant is a loved culinary spot.

Belmond Miraflores Park: The building rises over the Pacific Coast, offering outstanding views of the ocean and the surrounding luscious parks. The hotel has an inviting rooftop pool, a spa and popular Tragaluz restaurant, with a wide variety of dishes with Asian, Mediterranean and Peruvian touches and a spirited ambience, especially at night.

Where to Eat

La Perlita: Peruvian contemporary food tavern. Led by chef Ricardo Martins, the menu reinterprets traditional dishes while giving great protagonism to sea produce. The predominantly wood interior design, the pisco bar and a cheerful piano makes for a bohemian atmosphere.

Rafael: Nestled in a red 1918 house, this is a beloved spot for fine dining and drinking in Lima. Opened by chef and gastronomic entrepreneur Rafael Osterling more than 20 years ago —the kitchen is currently led also by chef Rodrigo Alzamora—, the menu gathers Asiatic, Italian and Mediterranean flavours with a twist of Peruvian identity.

Alegría: A picantería (traditional canteen) that pays tribute to the food of Piura, a coastal region in north Peru. It’s the hometown of chef Francesco de Sanctis, who rescues the original recipes to celebrate a rich regional gastronomy. You’ll find fresh produce, music and an atmosphere that lives up to the restaurant's name, which translates to “joy”.

Isolina: Traditional Peruvian food with a home-made flair is the speciality here: generous dishes to share served in an old casona, the setting for a taste of authentic Peru.

Where to Eat in Lima, Peru © Mérito 

Tomo: The fusion of Peruvian and Japanese gastronomy is wonderfully represented by this Nikkei restaurant. Prime local fish and seafood explode with umami under Japanese techniques. Served in an elegant and moody house.

Menú: This small restaurant in the picturesque Bajada de baños, was created by a group of local creatives — chefs, designers and visual artists — and the friendly spirit lingers upon the close candlelit tables, while the upholstery, furniture and interior design exhibit their artistry just as much as the menu. This is a short list of easy and tasty dishes that doesn’t follow one line and favours emotion and transformation.

Mérito: Surrounded by adobe walls in a 150-year-old building, Mérito’s experience is sensorial and close, with an open kitchen and warm interiors. The dishes are particularly beautifully presented and encapsulate a Latin American fusion of flavours, concocted by Venezuelan chef Juan Luis Martínez.

Surquillo: Traditionally a district of woodwork, metallurgical, car-repairing workshops and supply markets, in the last years Surquillo has become an exciting gastronomic corridor. Options revolve around the richness of Peruvian criollo and seafood, and include neighbourhood institutions like La Picantería by chef Héctor Solís, as well as newcomers La Capitana, Cumpa and Hayaq.

Lady Bee: Ranked number 13 in the list of The World’s 50 Best Bars and led by bartender Alonso Palomino and chef Gabriela Léon, it has recently moved to a stylish new venue to give proper housing to a menu of product-driven mixology and Peruvian identity.

What to See & Do

Historic Centre: Lima’s colonial centre, part of UNESCO’s World Heritage list, is one of the main capital’s historical highlights. Around Plaza Mayor (the main square) there’s plenty to visit, like the 16th-century cathedral and Church of San Francisco; mansions like Casa de Aliaga, with its notable antiques; or recently recovered buildings, like the Clock Tower in the University Park, Casa Vilela and Casa de la Cultura Rosa Mercedes Ayarza —thanks to the commendable work done by Prolima.

Los Descalzos Complex: The Rímac district is one of the oldest in Lima and its streets are filled with colonial and criollo tradition. One of its main attractions is the Descalzos Complex: through a long and ornamented walk (built in the early 17th century), one arrives to the Franciscan convent and church founded in 1595. Inside, a colorful arched patio showcases the architecture, and a museum exhibits religious relics and more than 300 paintings from the viceregal Cusco, Lima and Quito Schools.

The Amano Museum: A hidden jewel, with one of the most important bodies of ancient pre-Hispanic textiles in South America. A personalized guided tour grants access to private drawers with hundreds of delicate pieces that are not in exhibition.

The Larco Museum: Located in the viceregal workhouse of an 18th-century ranch, this museum guards around 50.000 pre-Hispanic artifacts. Some of its most special features are the Erotic Huacos room and the possibility of touring the deposit. 

The Museum of Art, MALI: Settled in the monumental Palacio de la Exposición, a 19th-century palace, it has the most comprehensive collection of Peruvian art, with pieces spanning from pre-Columbine to colonial, republican, modern and contemporary.

Barranco: Dubbed the bohemian district for good reasons, it’s home to historic landmarks, like the romantic bridge known as Puente de los Suspiros and the Bajada de baños, a stoned pedestrian path that leads to the ocean. Preferred by artists and designers to set their studios, among cafés, bars and restaurants, there are plenty of vivid cultural spaces, like Pedro de Osma Museum, Livia Benavides Gallery, renowned Víctor Delfin’s home studio, and the Museum of Contemporary Art, Lima.

Monumental Callao: The historic port. Its emblematic and patrimonial area, with landmarks like the fort Real Felipe, Grau Square and Republican-period casonas, were recovered through architectonic restoration and urban art as part of a social transformation project named Fugaz. Open studios, galleries, bars, restaurants and street parties fill the port with art, music and other cultural expressions.

Fundo Mamacona: A historic hacienda turned into a traditional food restaurant and weekend open-air presentations of folk dances and exhibitions of the elegant Peruvian Paso Horse, a breed of light saddle animals with a harmonious footfall beat. It's about an hour's drive from the city, but well worth it if you can spare the time. 

Where to Shop

KA Concept Store: Founded and geared by art director Angela Kusen, this concept store is an aesthetics laboratory that celebrates Peruvian and Latin American talent, spurring interdisciplinary collaborations, organizing exhibitions and events, and displaying independent art, design and fashion pieces with identity.

Tregua Espacio: A home-gallery that showcases Peruvian and Latin American contemporary art in a lived-house setting. The owner, Mónica de la Villa, guides the cozy tour, favoring in-depth conversations about the artists and their practice, and showing the extensive possibilities of dialogue between art pieces. By appointment only.

Casa Lerner: A charming house in front of archaeological site Huaca Pucllana, in one of the most beautiful neighbourhoods in Miraflores, is home to a selection of Peruvian fashion, design and art. Founded by designer Sophia Lerner, it fosters her own fashion brand, but she also stocks small contemporary Peruvian brands with a shared interest in local craftsmanship and sustainability. On the second floor there’s a new art gallery,  while Raíz Coffee has taken up the rooftop which overlooks the pre-Hispanic remains.

© Tregua, photo Valentino Sibadón

Las Pallas: Wales-born Mari Solari has lived and traveled the Peruvian geography for more than 50 years. Thanks to her knowledgeable eye, she has built a paradise for the artisan enthusiast with a collection of authentic hand-made and sometimes antique traditional art. The store occupies the front part of her colourful Barranco home, and her private collection is available for viewing upon request.

Puna Tienda: Housed in a centuries-old house, this space exhibits mainly Puna Studio’s objects, including their textile, ceramics and furniture lines, created in collaboration with artisans, workshops and local producers. It also accommodates the duo´s interiors and object design studio, which allows customers to peek into part of the process and better understand the process behind the finished products.

Ruraq Maki: Biannual artisan fair organized by the Minister of Culture. The most acclaimed craftspeople (including National Cultural Prices), representatives of artisan communities from every region and techniques that were named as National Heritage reunite in the extensive halls of the National Museum, MUNA, every July and December. Being able to talk to them, ask them questions and review their pieces with their own creators is priceless.

Contemporary pottery: Crafts are well represented by contemporary creators. The ceramic scene, especially, is an ebullient one, with exciting projects like Polen Studio, which operates from the Miel House, a ceramic workshop; Altamar Ceramics, which specializes in personalized tableware and utilitarian pieces and is open for visitors; and renowned Jallpa Nina, with almost 40 years creating handmade pottery, providing for high-end hotels and designers in their lovely workshop in the Lurín Valley.

© Polen