A Weekend in Munich

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Arguably one of the most underrated destinations in Europe, Munich is rightly emerging into the light. Its old town is home to outstanding neo-Gothic buildings, while its natural surroundings and out-of-town experiences make it an inspired city break. Munich insiders, Leonie Mir and Laura Inga, share tips for an unforgettable weekend. 

BY LEONIE MIR & LAURA INGA  | CABANA TRAVEL | 24 JANUARY 2024

© Miguel Flores-Vianna

Where to Stay

Rosewood Hotel: Munich’s newest luxury hotel, which opened in October 2023, occupies a landmark building in the city’s Old Town: the former Royal Bavarian Bank, first built around 1892. You can expect all the bells and whistles of the Rosewood group, with unique Bavarian flair.

Mandarin Oriental: Still rated the best by Munich residents and visitors alike, Mandarin Oriental Munich, in the heart of the Old Town, is smaller than many of the group’s hotels, which lends it a homely feel. Its excellent Japanese-Peruvian restaurant and rooftop terrace deserve a mention too.

Hotel Bayerischer Hof: Axel Vervoordt rarely works on commercial projects but made an exception for the legendary Bayerischer Hof, owned by the Volkhardt family for over 100 years. The architect has transformed the grand dame, redesigning suites and public spaces, including the atrium.

What to See & Do

Glyptothek: Munich’s oldest public museum, the Glyptothek, is a sanctuary of ancient sculpture, where Greek and Roman masterpieces are displayed against vaulted brick walls bathed in natural light. Designed by Leo von Klenze and commissioned by King Ludwig I as a home for his extensive sculpture collection, its neoclassical architecture creates an atmosphere as striking as the works it houses.

Münchner Residenz: In the heart of the city, this immense palace has ten courtyards and a mixture of Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo features. Its interiors—the Antiquarium, Grottenhof, Herzkabinett, Ahnengalerie and Reiche Kapelle—are embellished with tapestries, decorations, frescoed ceilings and a vast collection of European and Far Eastern porcelain. Open by appointment.

Asamkirche: A Rococo jewel. Initially conceived as a private house of worship, it was said to be opened by the citizens of Munich, impressed by its beauty. If the interior is a triumph of horror vacui, the exterior, with its original entrance door resting on natural rocks, is less brazenly ornate but just as fascinating.

Deutsches Jagd und Fischereimuseum: A 13th-century Augustinian monastery converted into a Hunting and Fishing Museum in the early 20th-century. A wunderkammer of objects, tools, paintings and prints, stuffed animals and dioramas, bearing witness to the rich Bavarian culture and its hunting and fishing evolution over the centuries.

Schloss Nymphenburg Park: A 200-hectare green oasis inspired by Italian, French and English gardens. The park holds architectural gems, including the Pagodenburg—a miniature masterpiece, built c.1716, with Delft ceramics and chinoiserie—the Amalienburg, with its hall of mirrors, and the Magdaleneklause, a grotto-style chapel decorated with corals and shells. 

Where to Eat

Alte Posthalterei: Just outside the city, in Zorneding, this romantic family-run restaurant serves regional and seasonal cuisine. Since 1711, the building has housed the post office on the Munich- Salzburg route and has always been a welcome resting place for horses and people. Mozart and Nannerl also stayed here.

Augustiner Stammhaus: This historic restaurant, the foundations of which date to the 13th-century, serves high-quality Bavarian cuisine in an impressive architectural setting. It has a fascinating history: Augustinian monks ran a brewery here, and towards the end of the 18th-century, they set up the first restaurant here.

Viktualienmarkt: This food market, originally a farmers’ market, has been held daily since 1807. It offers flowers, exotic fruit, game, spices and natural juices. In the centre of the square stands the imposing Maibaum (May tree), decorated in white and blue, garlanded with flowers and traditional ornaments.

Käfer-Schänke: A real Munich institution, do not miss this cozy, much-loved restaurant, which serves excellent local cuisine in a space that could scarcely be more charming—think low- lit, wood-paneled dining nooks with upholstered bench seating and precious objects on display.

Where to Shop

Auer Dult: A traditional antiques market held three times a year. Here, you can buy ceramics or porcelain typical of south-eastern Germany, naive paintings with an Alpine flavour, books and furniture, and special vintage curiosities. It’s located in the Mariahilf church square in the Au district, next to the Isar river.

Lederhosenwahnsinn: Herbert Lipah, an assiduous vendor at the Auer Dult market, found in Lederhosenwahnsinn the ideal place to give vent to his merchant skills. The shop is cozy and atmospheric with an immense selection that threatens to overwhelm the visitor with an embarrassment of choice. A visit here takes time!

Antik Reichenmeier: In one of Munich’s most picturesque districts, Haidhausen is a village within the city, protected by the municipality and reserved for the activities of craftsmen and artists. Several great antique shops can be found in Haidhausen, and one of the best is Antik Reichenmeier—a tiny hidden gem.