POSTCARD FROM | CABANA TRAVEL | WORLD OF CABANA
From its city built in volcanic stone to the magnificent Andean landscapes of the Colca Valley, Arequipa embodies the cultural and natural richness of Perú. Rebeca Vaisman explores this southern destination in a route filled with history, architecture, gastronomy and living traditions.
BY REBECA VAISMAN | CABANA TRAVEL | 15 FEBRUARY 2024
Monasterio Santa Catalina, Arequipa © Gihan Tubbeh / PromPerú
Just below the very popular tourist destination of Cusco, the neighbouring Arequipa region is part of the cultural and landscape southern route of Perú. It extends all the way from the Pacific shore up to 6,350 meters above sea level, resting over the Andean Mountain Rage amidst volcanos, canyons and valleys.
The capital city, Arequipa, is guarded by three volcanoes: Pichu Pichu, Chachani and Misti —this last one still active, albeit asleep. They not only give the city its known character with their prominence, but also with their inner strength, as the historic colonial heart of Arequipa is built in sillar, volcanic tuff that produces a porous and light-coloured stone, to which the town owns the name of White City.
The rich landscapes and heritage of Arequipa © Andean.
Arequipa’s architecture stands out for its regal bearing; there are plenty of buildings that tell the centennial history of the city. The main square, founded in 1540, is surrounded by arches and balconies, and it’s considered one of the most beautiful in Perú. Just a five-minutes-walk away, the thick walls of the Santa Catalina Convent rise: opened in 1580 as a nunnery, its 20.000 square meters of sillar –painted in vibrant colours– have survived earthquakes and reconstructions; thus, the monastic complex constitutes a faithful display of the mixtures and fusions of colonial architecture.
Other must-see buildings include Casa Goyeneche and Casa del Moral, both with delightful internal Spanish patios. Twenty minutes away from the center, the Yanahuara viewpoint unveils a broader profile of Arequipa. This is an enchanting place above the city, with arches made of the characteristic volcanic stone, a little square and a church –San Juan Bautista– from the 18th century.
Viceregal Art Museum, Arequipa © Gihan Tubbeh / PromPerú
For the architecture and design appreciative: Cirqa, a boutique hotel in a former monastery that dates to the 16th century. With only 11 rooms under impressive high-vaulted roofs, its monastic halls, and a stone pool and patio, Cirqa’s monumental beauty and thoughtful service honours the old monk’s traditional ways of receiving travellers and offering them hospitality.
With one of the richest gastronomies in Perú, a country known for the diversity of its produce and for its flavors, Arequipa offers truly indulgent culinary opportunities for foodies. A visit to the picanterías – colloquial places serving traditional food – is an imperative experience, with La Nueva Palomino being one of the most famous ones in the city, and rightly so.
The Sillar Route is a stone quarrying corridor that extends under the Chachani volcano. About a 30 minutes-ride away from the historic centre, the Añashuayco quarries can be visited to immerse in the traditional crafts of stone extracting, cutting and carving (around 500 craftsmen work in this quarry). The majestic volcanic stone walls make a unique landscape, and the dustiness and texture of the rocks reveal their nobleness.
The rich landscapes and heritage of Arequipa © Andean.
Not far from Añashuayco, an unexploited quarry, allowed to be traversed, is known as Quebrada de Culebrillas or Culebrillas Canyon. This is a natural, sinuous and abrupt rock path that opens and narrows: as a result, the sunbeam highlights certain spots, giving the stone walls different colours and shadows.
Three hours away into the highlands, the town of Chivay is considered the entrance to the Colca Valley. This is one of the biggest natural and cultural treasures of Perú. Deployed around the Colca River, it contains one of the deepest canyons in the world, the Colca Canyon, natural thermal waters, and mountain tops from where to gaze at the flight of the condor. There are plenty of routes to explore with out-of-this-world landscapes, like the Valley of the Volcanos and the geysers in the heights of Pinchollo.
The pre-Incan roots of the valley still stand in archaeological sites, like the ancient stone village of Uyo Uyo and the Chimpa Fortress. Descendants of the Collagua and Cabana cultures inhabit villages founded in Spanish colonial times, making sure that centennial festivities and traditions are still alive.
Ancient ruins, Arequipa © Rebeca Vaisman
One of the most special expressions of traditional art is the local embroidery, which was recently declared National Cultural Heritage of Perú. Its origin is in the fusion between Andean pre-Hispanic textile work and Spanish colonial technologies and styles. The vivid, overfilled, intricate designs are usually inspired by the rich flora and fauna of Colca and achieved through a mix of handwork and machine manufacturing - called the makinasca technique. Colorful, joyous and very much part of the life of the villagers, these garments can be found in textile workshops in villages like Sibaya and Yanque.
A desirable place to choose as a home base in the Colca Valley is Puqio. Recently set up by Andean (the hospitality group that runs Cirqa), it’s a glamping site with a sustainable approach. The rooms? Charming and subtly elegant tents, with wooden decks for taking in the scenery. The lodging offers guidance through the nearby routes (which is advisable), as well as the possibility of backriding and customisable journeys. And there are plenty of paths to choose in this volcanic, telluric and abundant land.
Puqio: elegant glamping in the Colca Valley © Andean
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