Checking-in to: Nihi Sumba

CHECKING-IN TO | CABANA TRAVEL | WORLD OF CABANA

Photographer and filmmaker Harrison Thane checks-in to Nihi Sumba, an other-wordly Indonesian retreat where guests can explore extraordinary vernacular architecture and awake to the sight of wild horses roaming Nihi’s pristine beaches.

BY HARRISON THANE | CABANA TRAVEL | 10 JANUARY 2025

Wild horses at dawn on Nihi's palm-fringed beaches © Harrison Thane

Sumba, known as Indonesia’s “lost-world island,” has preserved its mystery and rugged beauty over centuries, standing apart from its polished counterparts like Bali and Lombok. This is an island where cliffs plunge dramatically into the ocean, wild savannahs stretch as far as the eye can see, and culture remains deeply woven into everyday life. Nihi Sumba, perched on the island’s rugged western coast, offers a luxurious sanctuary that blends into this untamed landscape, inviting guests into a world where elegance meets authenticity.

Upon arrival, Nihi abandons the traditional check-in experience: guests are transported from the airport in open-air safari vehicles, winding through the raw and rustic beauty of Sumba. Here, travelers don’t merely arrive—they are immersed from the start, feeling the pulse of an island that has resisted modernity, where traditions run deep and time feels slow.

Thatched villas, Sumbanese craftsmanship and ocean-to-table dining at Nihi Sumba. All images © Harrison Thane.

The villas, inspired by the towering thatched structures of traditional Sumbanese huts, are crafted to celebrate the island’s heritage. Interiors are refined yet earthy, with locally sourced wood, woven textures, and—most strikingly—ikat textiles hanging throughout the properties. These ikats, woven by Sumbanese artisans over months, even years, are more than decorative pieces; they are storytelling fabrics, dyed with earthy reds, deep blues, and rich blacks. Each thread holds a tale of ancestors, of rituals and nature, creating a quiet but potent reminder of the culture embedded in every corner of Nihi.

Wellness at Nihi transcends the typical spa experience; it is a retreat within a retreat. The resort’s spa safari is perhaps one of its most exclusive offerings: a full-day escape to a secluded cove, where a series of open-air bales offer uninterrupted views of rice paddies and ocean horizons. Guests drift from one treatment to the next, indulging in massages, body wraps, and meditative sessions, feeling the stresses of the world fade away. It’s a sanctuary for the soul, isolated and serene, and perhaps the truest expression of Sumba’s spirit.

The villas at Nihi Sumba are crafted to celebrate the island’s heritage. All images © Harrison Thane. 

Adding to the exclusivity of Nihi’s wellness approach, the resort regularly hosts a rotating roster of globally renowned wellness practitioners. From hypnotherapists to equine therapists, the likes of David Hemery (mindfulness guide) and Jean-Claude Desprez (holistic wellness expert) have led transformative experiences here.

During my stay, the celebrated chefs from Terra Firma were in residence, preparing ocean-to-table meals on open fires (hello fire blasted toast!) on the beach, a nod to both Sumba’s untamed nature and the rich flavors the island has to offer. Dining at Nihi is immersive, with experiences ranging from cliffside breakfasts to beachside dinners. The Secret Villa—a clifftop nook with waves crashing below—is an unparalleled highlight. It’s a dining experience where the surroundings are as much a part of the meal as the food itself, grounding guests in the island’s visceral power.

Wellness at Nihi transcends the typical spa experience, with a full-day escape to a secluded cove. All images © Harrison Thane.

Nihi’s history is as layered as its design. Originally founded in the late 1980s by surf enthusiasts Claude and Petra Graves, it was known simply as Nihiwatu, a remote surf lodge famed for its access to one of the world’s finest left-hand breaks, “Occy’s Left.” When fashion mogul Chris Burch and hotelier James McBride acquired the property in 2012, they saw the potential to evolve Nihi from a surf retreat into a five-star destination rooted in community.

Through the Sumba Foundation, a portion of every guest’s stay contributes to clean water, healthcare and educational programs for the local Sumbanese. Nihi has become a bridge between luxury and purpose, where every indulgence is balanced by a commitment to preserving and uplifting the island.

The guest experience at Nihi is real and immersive— you could be riding a horse into the waves, exploring untouched beaches, or simply taking in the details that surround you. In this way, Nihi Sumba feels like an extension of the island itself.

- - - - - - - - - -

With thanks to Nihi Sumba and the Sumba Foundation

Discover more @nihi | www.nihi.com