Postcard from Bikaner

INSPIRATION | CABANA TRAVEL | WORLD OF CABANA

Beyond India’s well-trodden golden triangle, the number of visitors to Bikaner – on the edge of the vast Thar Desert in Northern Rajasthan –  is comparatively small, often considered a stopover en route to Rajasthan’s more famous towns. Those who make the journey, and stay a little longer, are rewarded with crowd-free sights and a town not obviously touched by tourism.

BY ELIZABETH BENNETT | CABANA TRAVEL | 28 FEBRUARY 2026

There is one sign you have nearly reached Bikaner: the increasing number of camels on the road. In between the zigzagging motorbikes and elaborately decorated trucks, camels drag overflowing carts twice their size, their relaxed drivers often lying horizontal.

Bikaner is full of surprises but considering its location on the edge of the vast Thar Desert in Northern Rajasthan, camels shouldn't have been one of them. Beyond India’s well-trodden golden triangle, visitors here are comparatively rare small; Bikaner is most often just a stopover en route to Rajasthan’s more famous desert town, Jaisalmer or Punjab’s Amritsar. Those who do make the journey, and decide to linger a little longer, are quickly rewarded with crowd-free sights and a town not obviously touched by tourism.

Established in the 15th century by a Rajput prince, the son of Jodhpur’s founder, Bikaner and its surrounding kingdom quickly became a hub for trade thanks to its advantageous position on the caravan routes. A key player in the Mughal Empire, the construction of Junagarh Fort at the end of the 16th century cemented the city’s power.

On our first morning in Bikaner, Junagarh Fort is naturally where we start. This sprawling complex, unusually built on flat land, is enclosed by high sandstone ramparts and is made up of a sequence of courtyards and palaces. Exploring through narrow passageways, there is a visual feast for the eyes at every turn.

The three palaces that peel off the Anup Mahal Chowk are particularly spectacular. There’s the Badal Mahal with its blue cloud motif frescoes, the Chandra Mahal and its mesmerising mirror work and the Phool Mahal, decorated with floral stucco plasterwork.

Heading into the oldest part of the city is a complete contrast. The tangle of streets is lined with market stalls, the smell of frying groundnuts fills the air. Goats feed at our feet and every type of business goes ahead in the street from a cobbler fixing shoes to a dentist fixing teeth.

It was in this part of town that the wealthy merchants of the late 19th and early 20th centuries set up home, building ornate townhouses known as havelis. As we wander through, the cluster of Rampuria Havelis makes the biggest statement. Their intricately carved façades crafted from the same red sandstone, the windows framed in a contrasting Tiffany blue.

While some are still private residences and can only be admired from the exterior, you can see inside one mansion which was turned into a heritage hotel, Bhanwar Niwas, by the Rampuria family in the 1930s. We stop by for a sugary lime soda in the hotel’s rose-hued courtyard as the sun sets and take up the housekeeper’s offer of a free tour.

From inside you can really appreciate the Jharokhas, the overhanging carved balconies and the delicate lattice stonework known as Jaali as well as see the grand bedrooms stuffed with antique furniture.

Thanks to Bikaner’s royal past, a number of palaces throughout the city now operate as luxurious hotels. We are staying at Narendra Bhawan, the former residence of the last reigning Maharaja of Bikaner, Narendra Singhji.

His home has been expanded into an 82-room hotel, its whimsical decor inspired by his love of international travel and design with Portuguese tiles sitting next to Rajasthani tapestries and pieces of mid-century furniture. It’s a colorful world with a shimmering rooftop pool, a Mad Hatter patisserie and a cocktail bar housed in a striped circus tent.

On our last morning we tear ourselves away and visit Bhandasar Jain Temple, supposedly constructed using 40 tonnes of ghee instead of water. Covered in vibrant murals, we arrive to the sound of chanting, the temple full of worshippers for a morning ritual. Friendly faces pull us into the fold, the rousing music infectious. An unexpected yet unforgettable moment in this city that has continued to surprise and delight us.