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When Europe starts moving into its winter slumber, Morocco feels like a burst of sunshine, writes Provençe-based photographer Joanna Maclennan. She takes her camera on a vibrant journey through the North African nation, discovering that Tangier and its nearby 'blue city' truly awaken all the senses. The best way to discover these magical cities is, as the French would say, to ‘flâner’ through - and get a little bit lost in - the colors and details you encounter.
BY JOANNA MACLENNAN | CABANA TRAVEL | 30 JANUARY 2025
Chefchaouen, more commonly known as the 'Blue City' © Joanna Maclennan
It’s been 32 years since I've been to Tangier, and I arrived exactly the same way I did then; by boat from Tarifa. Only then it was summer and we were standing outside on the boat deck waiting to arrive at an unknown continent. I remember it being a lot more rustic. Everything is more modern now, and as we arrived into the new port it felt like a completely different experience. There has been much change, but Tangier is still a beautiful, historic city. It may have grown and grown, but the medina and Kasbah have stayed the same.
Both the Medina and Kasbah are easy to navigate, even for first timers. You'll pass white walls, vibrant splashes of blue and green, and then you'll descend into the throb of the Old Town where the streets become narrower and the shops and people seem to increase. The medina has been preserved and renovated (a little too clean for some locals' liking), but there is still a feeling of timelessness, along with reminders of its colonial past. If you have ever visited other cities - especially Marrakech - you will find the pace of life much slower.
This was the first time my friend, writer and photographer Lisa Flood, had been to Morocco. We found a wonderful gem of a hotel recommended by locals and visitors alike: La Tangerina, high up in the Kasbah overlooking the strait of Gibraltar. On a clear day you can see Spain. We ate breakfast on the terrace and, if you book a day in advance, you can have a beautiful dinner too.
We enjoyed watching the world go by in the petit socco at the Cafe Tingis. Then there is the grand socco, which leads down to the food markets (always worth a visit in any town or city). One of the best coffees we had was from the Café Porto Rico tucked between stands overflowing with herbs and spices on the way to the fish market. The café has been a Tangier institution for generations - try the coffee with cardamom and cinnamon spices. It certainly wakes you up.
We decided to do a couple of day trips. One of the towns I'd been wanting to visit for many years was Chefchaouen, more commonly known as the 'Blue City'. It's situated in a mountainous region in northern Morocco. There are several theories as to why the walls were painted blue. One is that blue keeps the mosquitoes away, the other is that when the Sephardic Jewish settlers escaped the Spanish Inquisition in the 15th century they brought with them the tradition of painting buildings blue. Blue also symbolizes the sky and heaven.
We were warned the Blue City might be very touristy, but like most places, if you walk away from the main streets you'll find areas where you are on your own. We had lunch at Casa Hassan, which was delicious, and if you are brave enough to walk to the very top of the terrace you will be greeted by a 360-degree view of the town and mountains. The Blue City was a photographer's dream.
Our second day trip was to the seaside town of Asilah, which is painted white with splashes of blue and green, while its city walls are lined with artworks. The pace of life is even slower in Asilah, and we found a couple of wonderful antique shops there. On Sundays you will see families strolling through town.
On our last night in Tangier, we visited Villa Mabrouka. British designer Jasper Conran has bought Yves Saint Laurent’s former house, transforming it into a small and sumptuously stylish hotel. While we sipped our cocktails overlooking the sea and the green and white striped tent in the garden, it felt like heaven. The elegant surroundings of a bygone era have been updated with a distinctly Mediterranean feel. We finished our evening by the fire, eating the most delicious meal and being treated like royalty by the wonderful staff.
The trip reminded me that Morocco truly does awaken all the senses: the vibrant colors, the food markets, the decor, the smells, the food. There is nothing like a well cooked tagine. When Europe starts moving into its winter slumber, Morocco feels like a burst of much-needed sunshine. As the French put it, to ‘flâner’ through Tangier – and get a little bit lost - is still the best way to discover it.
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