CRAFT STORIES | EUROPE | UK | TEXTILES
Gainsborough Silk Weaving Company and The Story of Jacquard

Gainsborough Silk Weaving Company © Neil Mersh
The history of Jacquard is a story of ingenuity, invention and the enduring relationship between technology and the human hand. Born out of the silk-weaving industry of early 19th-century France, it transformed the possibilities of patterned cloth, allowing designs of extraordinary intricacy to be woven with a precision and repeatability previously unimaginable. More than two centuries later, its legacy lives on at Gainsborough Silk Weaving Company in Suffolk, England, where generations of craftspeople have continued to explore the expressive possibilities of the loom.
Before a chain of punched cards could instruct a loom to weave flowers and scrolling leaves, producing such ornament required two people working in unison. In the silk workshops of Lyon, a weaver at a drawloom depended on an assistant, often called a drawboy, to select and lift groups of warp threads according to the pattern. Each passage of the weft relied on the right threads being raised at the right moment - an exacting arrangement behind the figured silks destined for European courts.
Born in Lyon, Joseph-Marie Jacquard (1752–1834) approached the laborious task of selecting warp threads by drawing on earlier inventors' experiments. Basile Bouchon had used perforated paper to control their selection, followed in 1728 by Jean-Baptiste Falcon’s linked punched cards. In the early 1800s, Jacquard refined the system into a commercially successful loom attachment, advancing the cards automatically so the weaver could produce an elaborate pattern without an assistant's hand selection.

Ramaer & Co., W.G.J., Helmond Dating c. 1909 - c. 1924 © The Rijksmuseum
Laced into a continuous chain, the cards supplied a sequence of instructions. Their holes determined which warp threads could rise, making an opening through which the weft passed; the next card supplied the next selection. Over successive crossings, the pattern emerged in the cloth. The assistant’s repeated interventions were replaced by instructions that could be retained and reused.
For the designer and manufacturer, this meant a complicated pattern could be reproduced more efficiently. Elaborate figured weaving long predated Jacquard, but his mechanism made execution less dependent on coordinating two workers at the loom. A design had acquired a portable, repeatable form in cardboard, with each perforation contributing to the eventual arrangement of silk.
When Charles Babbage was planning his Analytical Engine, he recognised the possibilities of this system beyond weaving. The principle that directed thread selection could also direct a sequence of mathematical operations. Punched cards became part of his plans for the calculating machine, giving textile manufacture an unexpected place in the history of computing.

Jacquard coverlet, H. Langden Brown Artist, American, 1879 - 1960 © National Gallery of Art, Washington DC
As Jacquard weaving spread during the 19th century, it found applications in furnishing fabrics, dress silks, shawls and damask. Jacquard looms were recorded in the Scottish textile industry from the 1820s, including in shawl production and table linen weaving. The mechanism could produce many kinds of patterns and materials, with instructions governing thread interlacing rather than prescribing a particular appearance for the finished cloth.
When Reginald Warner founded Gainsborough Silk Weaving Company in Sudbury, Suffolk, in 1903, his collection of European fabrics and pattern books gave the new mill plenty to work from. Some had come from the Ipswich Weaving Company, and reproducing older textiles was part of the business from the outset. New commissions added more designs to the books, where samples of every fabric woven at Gainsborough have been kept. The archive now holds more than 7,000 references.
Within its books, green, blue, burgundy and rust-coloured samples sit against pages thickened by the cloth attached to them. Flowers and scrolling stems recur in different colorways, with handwritten notes. The archive offers patterns to revisit and evidence of how particular combinations of yarn, color and structure have behaved in the weave. Its historical references extend to designs and weave effects dating back to the 15th century, well before Gainsborough or Jacquard’s mechanism existed.
On the mill floor, the relationship between those designs and the machinery becomes tangible. Packs of punched cards still control Gainsborough’s traditional Jacquard shuttle looms, selecting the warp threads as a metal-tipped wooden shuttle carries the weft between them. Inside the shuttle, yarn winds onto a small bobbin called a pirn. A reed presses each crossing into place, adding to the length of patterned cloth.
Alongside these machines are dobby looms and digitally controlled rapier looms. Dobby mechanisms select groups of warp threads through shafts, while Jacquard control allows more individualised selection. On the rapier machines, gripping heads carry the weft across, and the pattern instructions arrive digitally from the design department. These looms no longer need physical cards, though preparing the yarn and understanding the weave remain essential.
“Technology has an important and very positive role in contemporary weaving,” Marie Karlsson, Gainsborough’s managing director tells Cabana. “It can give us extraordinary precision, repeatability, and creative possibilities. But it cannot replace the human sensitivity required to interpret the material.”

Gainsborough Silk Weaving Company © Neil Mersh
That sensitivity is exercised well before the first passage of the weft, with bobbins for the warp arranged on the pegs of a frame called a creel, their threads passed individually through a comb-like reed and wound onto a warping mill in successive sections. Some pressure-harness warps contain as many as 14,400 threads. To prepare the loom, a knotting machine joins the new warp to the one already in place, allowing it to be drawn through the harness.
With so many threads brought into order, even a small change in tension matters. Silk responds to its surroundings and to how it is handled; the instructions for a pattern cannot anticipate every change in its behaviour. “A machine can measure tension, but the craftsperson understands what that tension means,” explains Karlsson.
Learning to make that distinction involves working beside someone who already knows the material. An experienced weaver notices a change in the loom’s rhythm or an irregularity forming on the cloth's surface, and knows whether to stop or let the work continue. As Karlsson describes it: “An experienced weaver demonstrates a movement; the learner repeats it; the experienced eye makes a small correction. Over time, the movement becomes instinctive.”

Gainsborough Silk Weaving Company © Neil Mersh
This accumulated experience also informs the development of new fabrics. An archive pattern may be recoloured or rescaled, while a contemporary commission introduces different demands of texture, transparency or structure. Each must be translated into instructions the loom can follow, with yarns capable of producing the intended effect. “When you understand a traditional technique profoundly, you can begin to challenge it intelligently,” says Karlsson.
More than two centuries after Jacquard developed his attachment, the distinction between recording a pattern and making a fabric remains apparent at Gainsborough. The cards preserve the sequence of raised threads; the weaver watches as those instructions become cloth. Once woven, every length is measured and inspected on a large, easel-shaped light table, where the flowers, leaves and spaces between them receive a final examination before leaving the mill. It is work guided, as Karlsson puts it, by “patience, precision, discipline, curiosity, and respect for the material”.

© Alun Callender
Marie Karlsson Gainsborough was speaking to Barbara Spinelli for Cabana Magazine Issue 27.
Words by Team Cabana
Images courtesy the Rijksmuseum, the National Gallery of Art. Photographs by Alun Callender, Neil Thomas, Jefferson Smith, Charlie Sainsbury-Plaice and Neil Mersh.