Trending now
TRAVEL GUIDE | CABANA TRAVEL | WORLD OF CABANA
Once marshland, Capalbio has transformed into one of Maremma’s most captivating escapes. From its reclaimed landscapes to its rise as a haven for artists, intellectuals and travellers, this Tuscan hill town combines wild natural beauty, Mediterranean charm and a timeless atmosphere. Fabrizia Caracciolo shares an insider's guide.
BY FABRIZIA CARACCIOLO | CABANA TRAVEL | 26 JUNE 2026
A charming hotel in the heart of the Terre di Sacra estate © Terre di Sacra.
It was only between the 1930s and 1940s that Capalbio’s surroundings became liveable, thanks to the large-scale reclamation projects carried out in Italy by the Fascist regime during that period to combat malaria. The area then went through many different phases, from marshland to sown fields to one of the most enchanting nature reserves in Italy.
It is no surprise that, thanks to its natural beauty and and the beautiful sea of the Argentario, Capalbio soon became a holiday destination. Initially it attracted a group of liberal intellectuals, gaining the name of “Little Athens”, then morphed into a must-be-seen spot for those attracted by the laid-back atmosphere and rural beauty of the Maremma shoreline.
©Terre di Sacra
©Terre di Sacra
©Terre di Sacra
Where to Stay
Locanda Rossa: In the gentle folds of the Maremma countryside, Locanda Rossa has long been a discreet refuge for those in search of calm. Its terracotta-toned volumes seem to emerge naturally from the landscape, while interiors favour a restrained palette and tactile simplicity. Days pass between the pool and shaded terraces and gardens.
Terre di Sacra: A scattered hotel nestled in the heart of the Terre di Sacra estate. The Ecoluxe lodges and tents, just a few steps from the beach, offer the unique opportunity for a detox holiday by the sea without giving up comfort or beauty. Choose between the tents, inspired by African safari camps, or the Ecoluxe lodges: private suites surrounded by the Maremma bush.
Tarot Garden: For a more private retreat, the possibility of renting a house within the estate of the Tarot Garden offers something altogether singular. Conceived by Niki de Saint Phalle, the garden lends its imaginative spirit to its surroundings. Villa Garavicchio or Villa Sofia with its art collection by Lucia Pesapane, are set within this quietly extraordinary landscape and provide a secluded escape where art, nature and architecture coexist in a deeply personal way.
Where to Eat
L’ultima Spiaggia: The pioneer of Capalbio’s beach resorts, L’ultima Spiaggia offers an exquisite lunch and dinner with its infamous pasta alle vongole and salt baked fish.
Il Frantoio: Nested in the old medieval town of Capalbio Alta, Il Frantoio is the meeting place where people go for the atmosphere, drinks and late dinners.
La Dogana: Another favorite by the sea. From June 2026 there will also be their sister spot Il Doganino for delicious cocktails and a fusion finger foods menu.
La Capanna del Circolo Sant’Irma, Il Fontanile dei Caprai and Il Tortello: For an immersion in the traditional Maremma of the Butteri (the historical local Cowboys), these restaurants offer local cuisine made of grilled meat (wild boar is a must) and ragù or cacio e pepe pici pasta.
Bar La Polverosa: Further inland, located in the namesake estate owned by two lovely siblings, Bar La Polverosa is by far the most amusing watering hall of the coast. For a fast meal during the day but most of all for evening and late night drinks.
Carmen Bay: You literally are on the seashore here – order the Spaghetti alla Bottarga.
What to See and Do
Il Giardino dei Tarocchi: Created by the world renowned French artist Niki de Saint Phalle, this is a unique monumental sculpture park situated in the Garavicchio estate. It is made of 22 monumental sculptures, each representing a Major Arcana tarot card. They are enormous, walkable, and covered in mosaics. Saint Phalle worked on the project for over 20 years and actually lived inside the Empress sculpture while building the garden.
La Macchia: This private members Beach Club is set in an elegantly restored 16th-century farmhouse, right by the dunes of Macchiatonda, and offers the most refined service to its cosmopolitan clientele. Il Lido decorated by the talented Italian Architect Tommaso Zifferis is the brand new Beach Club due to open in summer 2026.
Giglio and Giannutri Islands: Rent a boat in Porto Ercole and sail off for the day to explore these two wonderful islands.
The “Cosa” Archaeological site: Located on the Ansedonia promontory in an area of extraordinary scenic value, it includes the remains of the colony founded by the Romans in 273 BC. Defended by impressive walls fitted with imposing gates, to keep control over the territory of Vulci, newly taken from the Etruscans.
Tarquinia: Just across the border into Lazio, is one of the great centers of Etruscan civilisation. The extraordinary necropolis is a UNESCO World Heritage site, where painted 2500-years-old tombs still preserve scenes of dancing, banquets, and daily life. You descend into them almost as if entering a private world, intimate and strangely alive.
Hypermaremma: The association, in collaboration with “Terre di Sacra”, commissioned two masterpieces: from Massimo Uberti, “Spazio Amato”, featuring an immense luminous architecture, 16m long and 3.5m high, a beacon of hope; and from Giuseppe Ducrot, a grandiose 15m long and 4.5m high ceramic fountain, the “Fontanile”.
The Dune Festival: A three-day event (29 June - 1 July) featuring electronic music, yoga and other experiences in the lunar setting of a desert camping.
Where to Shop
Community Capalbio: In the small rural village of Borgo Carige, this refined store has a wide selection of fashion items and decorative objects. The perfect place to find a present.
Mario Lo Giuro: In this bazaar one feels like being in the souk in Marrakech. It offers a range of the most beautiful furniture and objects, all made in Morocco.
Antica fattoria La Parrina: For many years the farmhouse, recently bought by the Antinori wine estate group has provided the region with its fresh Zero km products. It also has also a delicious organic restaurant and lovely rooms.
Orbetello Flea Market: On the first weekend of the month, don’t miss this local antiques fair.
Read Latest Articles
