A Weekend in Emporda

TRAVEL GUIDE | CABANA TRAVEL | WORLD OF CABANA

Spain's Baix Emporda, where the Pyrenean foothills meet the Costa Brava, has long drawn artists and poets to its medieval villages, golden light and quiet shores. The most notable of these is Salvador Dalí but beyond Figueres and Cadaqués, lies a deeper culture: Iberian settlements, Romanesque chapels, and farmhouse tables. Emporda native Pablo Rovira share a highly curated insider's guide to this irresistible corner of Catalonia.

BY PABLO ROVIRA | CABANA TRAVEL | 5 MAY 2026

Overlooking the bay of Palafrugell where you can swim straight off the rocks © Reckoner

Where to Stay

Viu Emporda: Founded in 2020, Viu Emporda represents some of the region's most beautiful and architecturally diverse properties, all available to rent throughout the year.

From the exceptional Casa Daro, deep in the countryside near Palau de Casavells (see 'What to See & Do'), to rustic Casa Carolina and Casa Brava, poised above the sea in Begur, there is something to suit every need and stylistic preference. Rooted in local knowledge, Viu Emporda also acts as a tour guide to the region, opening doors to hidden workshops, family-run vineyards, craft traditions shaped by generations and much more.

Casa Daro, one of Viu Emporda's elegant architect-designed properties @ Reckoner.

Where to Eat & Drink

Toc al Mar: This atmospheric restaurant, quintessentially Emporda, serves delicious rice dishes and fresh fish right by the sea, with tables almost on the sand. They take walk-ins, but it's very popular during the summer so expect a long wait if you haven't booked.

Es Carxofa: Open for lunches only, from Thursday to Monday, Es Carxofa serves high quality Mediterranean cuisine on a charming village square. The artichoke and iberian ham ravioli is not to be missed, but every dish is a delight. You can't go wrong.

Comedor Verdor: Dining here is a truly unique experience. The restaurant is hidden among bamboo canes within a former mill. Lit by candlelight, it's a romantic spot and often hard to get a reservation. But it's worth it, both for the atmosphere and the delicious set menu, which focuses on simple dishes perfectly executed. It's something of a local secret and can be difficult to book (there's no website), but just ask Viu Emporda. 

Clara Begur: Located in the old garden of the Palacete de Begur in the center of Begur Sol Blanc, Clara serves great food in a lively atmosphere under a glass pergola. It serves tapas and some of the best rice dishes in the region, but be sure to book ahead.

Ultramar Begur: A lively beach bar right on the sand with a lovely relaxed vibe. Here you can eat fresh seafood and more casual, but delicious, international cuisine. 

Pastisseria Sans: A real institution, this patisserie has been standing for more than 100 years and is a great stop for a wide selection of pastries, breads and baked treats. 

What to See & Do

Beautiful towns: The Baix Emporda region is full of beautiful medieval villages and seaside settlements where shops and restaurants spill onto the sea. 

My favorites are La Bisbal d'Empordà, the main town in the Baix Emporda and renowned for its long-standing ceramics traditions (more details below); Calella de Palafrugell, an iconic seaside town; Monells, Peratallada and Pals, charming medieval towns; Tamariu and Sa Riera, beautiful fishing villages with lovely beaches; Cadaqués, the seaside town made famous by Salvador Dalí and Pubol, where you can visit the studio of talented ceramicist Caterina Roma (see below) and the castle Dalí gave to his wife, Gala.

Palau de Casavells: An impressive contemporary art gallery in a 16th century old townhouse converted into a striking space by the renowned Spanish gallerist Miquel Alzueta. You'll find rotating exhibitions and a permanent collection of mid-century art and furniture, but the setting and the building itself is equally worthy of attention.  

Gala Dalí Castle: The great Spanish surrealist bought this crumbling 12th century castle in 1969 and gifted it to his wife, Gala, who dictated that Dalí could only visit with her prior handwritten permission. The eccentric castle is full of Dalí's works and interesting aesthetic and architectural details. It is also a thoroughly unique insight into the artistic pair and their notoriously intense, unconventional relationship. 

Ceramics: The Baix Emporda is renowned for its rich ceramic traditions and you'll find no shortage of shops and workshops to browse. La Bisbal d'Empordà, a short drive from Begur is the epicenter, with many places to occupy ceramics lovers, from the Terracotta Ceramics Museum, which charts the craft's regional history and presents thousands of pots and sculptures, to the streets surrounding it, which are full of producers, like Vilà Clara Ceramistes. Allow yourself a morning or afternoon to wander at leisure. 

The Gala Dalí Castle: a fascinating insight into the life and relationships of Salvador Dalí.

Where to Shop

Caterina Roma: The eponymous pottery studio and gallery of local ceramicist Caterina, which sits in the shadow of the Salvador Dalí castle in Pubol. You can browse Caterina's ceramics in a beautiful, rustic setting and even take a pottery class yourself. 

Vilà Clara Ceramistes: A traditional pottery studio and shop, which has been operating since 1950 using the characteristic techniques of La Bisbal d'Empordà. They have a wide range of ceramics, from handcrafted tiles to tableware and decorative objects. 

Sampere Ceramics: Brothers Diego and Nacho Sampere opened their studio and shop in 2015, determined to preserve the region's tradition of handmade ceramics by inviting visitors to witness the entire process behind their tableware.

Última Parada: This vintage furniture shop stocks mid-century finds and makes a large variety of handcrafted wooden furniture in its workshop onsite. If you visit during the summer months, you may find their lively restaurant open for lunch too.

Casa Daro, an architect-designed property managed by Viu Emporda © Reckoner