A Weekend in the Faroe Islands

A WEEKEND IN | CABANA TRAVEL | CABANA MAGAZINE

A place of mysticism, tradition and unforgiving terrain, the Faroe Islands have long mystified visitors with their rich history and culture. Now a new wave of creatives and restaurateurs are bringing these lesser-known, oft-unexplored islands to global consciousness, find Nuria Val and Isabella Rose Celeste Davey as they explore the islands.

BY ISABELLA ROSE CELESTE DAVEY | CABANA TRAVEL | 21 OCTOBER 2024 

With a population of approximately 54,0000, and the capital city, Torshavn, recorded as receiving fewer hours of sunshine than any other city in the world, the Faroe Islands have long been sought out by those wishing for adventure. While the disputed etymology of their name ranges from 'sheep island to 'to travel’, evidence of human settlement from as early as 500 AD underscores the mysticism and history. With past and present tightly entwined, they are a haven for historians and filmmakers alike, with the remake of Peter Pan setting Neverland on the sea stack Drangarnir, and No Time To Die setting the death of James Bond on Kalsoy Island. 

Comprised of 779 islands, islets and skerries, the Faroe Islands carry spectacular scenery and rich history, while a new wave of creatives and restaurateurs are bringing this oft-unexplored terrain to global consciousness. Walking boots and raincoats are mandatory, as is a hunger to explore one of the earth's most beautiful natural wonders.

Where to Stay

Hotel Foroyer: Overlooking the capital city of Torshavn, Hotel Foroyer is an institution in its bracing views and architectural design spanning outwards to maximise the impact of the unmatched views. With a keen focus on comfort, luxury and a contemporisation of Faroese tradition, hotel Foroyer is the perfect base to gather oneself for an adventure across the islands. 

Havgrím Seaside Hotel: Built in 1948, Havgrím Seaside Hotel was designed by Eyðálvur á Heygum for Havgrímur Johannesen, inspired by Johannesen's many sailing trips to Great Britain. In 1952 the house was sold to the Danish State, with 21 Danish Commodores and their families having made the house their home over the years. Now a private hotel, it has gained iconic status in Torshavn, with the view over the ocean from the Commodore room an infamous sight to wake up to.

Nólsoyarstova, Torshavn: An 18th-century building delicately restored into three separate guest houses overlooking the harbour, the site has lived many lives: it was once the Italian consulate and, most recently, the official state home of the Faroese Prime Minister. Despite its long and noble history, in recent years Nolsoyarstova fell into rapid decay. Anna Maria and Jógvan Hans Østerø restored the property to its former glory, preserving as much of the original structure and character as possible.

Where to Eat

Barbara Fish House: A tapas restaurant with a menu rooted in local seafood, Barbara Fish House was the fictional home of one of the most famous characters in Faroese literature, Jørgen Franz Jacobsen’s Barbara. In one of the oldest buildings in the capital, the restaurant serves core ingredients ranging from horse mussels, smoked salmon, cod and langoustines, each prepared with their own unique twist.

ROKS: The sister restaurant to the 2-time Michelin-starred KOKS, ROKS is housed in an ancient, turf-roofed building in the capital city Torshavn, with a rustic interior, laid-back ambience, and friendly staff. The menu is dedicated to celebrating the surrounding waters, from local sea-urchins to langoustines and Greenlandic snow crab. While the informal ambience and cosy interiors is a welcome retreat from the unforgiving climate, the food served is of an exceptional quality, with their tasting menu highly recommended from international visitors and locals alike.

Paname Café: Located in the historic grass-roofed building in Vaglið square by the Parliament in Torshavn, Paname Café combines an elegant interior with informal Faroese hospitality and a real sense of history. This family-run café offers homemade pastries and bread, organic coffee and tea, as well as some great French wines to sample over a platter of charcuterie or a homemade sandwich.

Raest: In May 2016, the Faroe Islands saw the opening of one of the world’s first “fermented” restaurants: Raest ('raest' means fermented in Faroese). Unlike the wet fermenting process for yogurt and pickled herring, the Faroes’ salty brisk air creates ideal conditions for air-drying meat and fish, a process done in hjallur (food-drying sheds) across the islands. The restaurant is in Tórshavn, in a 400-year-old house with floors, walls and ceilings built of salvaged driftwood. A Delft stove once fueled by blubber oil sits in the corner. The menu includes cold fermented lamb soup with turnips, fermented cod, and Rhubarb porridge with cream of burned rosemary.

What to See and Do

Drangarnir: One of the most unique sights in the Faroe Islands are the two sea stacks called Drangarnir placed between the island of Vágar and Tindhólmur islet. Reached only by boat, the island - which has only two inhabited houses - was the other-worldly location for the 1990 film, Neverland, based on JM Barrie's Peter Pan. Visiting is overwhelming and incredibly peaceful due to its natural magnificence. 

Múlafossur: In the tiny village of Gasadalur, with just 13 inhabitants, Múlafossur (a waterfall) is one of the most iconic sites of the Faroe Islands. Impossible to drive here before 2005, it was a secluded haven untouched by modern intrusions. Today, a tunnel connects Gásadalur to the neighboring village of Bøur, allowing for locals and visitors to enjoy all that Múlafossur has come to symbolize. The waterfall itself is a five-minute walk from the village of Gasadalur - a simple path, a wooden railing at the cliff edge and very often an incredible experience all to yourself.

Torsvhavn: Faroe's capital, Torsvhavn holds a bustling 20,0000 occupants, with its entwined roads gathering around the picturesque harbour. The city has preserved the old town, with its small neighborhood of black-tarred houses with white-framed windows and turf roofs. While they date back to the 14th century, many are now home to celebrated restaurants, bars, stories and cultural landmarks.

Tjørnuvík: One of the oldest villages in the Faroe Islands with Viking graves found in the eastern part of the valley, proving that the area has been inhabited since the first Vikings landings. From the beach, one can see two freestanding rocks, Risin and Kellingin (the 'Giant' and the 'Witch'), which, according to legend, tried to drag the Faroe Islands to Iceland. Set into a secluded inlet, the village is celebrated for its surfing and renowned for breathtaking views as one drives down into the bay. 

Bøsdalafossur Waterfall: With a vista of Leitisvatin lake, the hike to Bøsdalafossur Waterfall is an unmissable pilgrimage that captures such a cross section of the eco-system at work. When the sun shines it hits the lake like glass, reflecting the passing clouds above. A near-meditative walk, the pathway is set enough to know the route, but also not so much as to impact the surroundings. 

Where to Shop

Gudrun & Gudrun: Founded in 2002, Gudrun & Gudrun is a contemporary knitwear brand founded in the Faroe Islands. With a focus on giving new perspectives to local wool (often considered rough and unsuitable), Gudrun & Gudrun is on a mission to modernise traditional craftsmanship and frame it in a fresh context.

Káta Hornið: Located on the main street in downtown Tórshavn, this charming store is where Faroese clothing brands Durita Thomsen and Reka exhibit and sell their current collections of handmade and hand knitted luxury clothing for women, together with Leirverk, which makes beautifully handcrafted ceramic cups, bowls and ceramics. The combination of old and charming surroundings against contemporary design makes an intriguing shopping experience.

Steinprent Lithography Workshop: Steinprent is the Faroese word for stone lithography, and the Steinprent Lithography Workshop is located in an old factory by the harbour of Torshavn. Highly specialized in this old and fascinating technique, artists from all over Scandinavia and Europe come to the islands to create and experiment with this artform in the workshop. With enough space for both the machines, the artists, and visitors, you'll also be able to enjoy incredible views over the harbour while viewing the gallery's newest works as they are created.