TRAVEL GUIDE | CABANA TRAVEL | CABANA MAGAZINE
Talented young Greek designer Leda Athanasopoulou shares a highly curated insider's guide to her beloved Crete, a year-round must-visit destination full of craft and culture. Discover Leda's favorite spots on the island, from ceramics workshops and design-led hotels to surreal landscapes and discreet coffee bars on hidden beaches.
BY LEDA ATHANASOPOULOU | CABANA TRAVEL | 27 SEPTEMBER 2024
My Favorite Places to Stay: Rimondi and Ammos
My favorite hotel in Crete's Rethymnon region is Rimondi Boutique Hotel, a 17th century Venetian building with renaissance influences located in the heart of the old town. It is so comfortable and private, I often spend the day there, to work, swim in the pool and visit the traditional Turkish hammam. It feels like home.
Ammos, a 70s hotel with fresh design, is my favorite in Chania. The owner, Nikos Tsepetis, also owns a delicious, very well designed bakery in Chania called Red Jane. Therefore, the hotel's breakfast buffet, sourced from the bakery, is a must.
My Favorite Region: Sfakia
Sfakia, a mountainous area of the Chania regional unit is my favorite, and the most original part of Crete. You often have to stop in the street for herds of goats, and you will find the most delicious fresh produce, and a peaceful, fresh climate.
I like to stay in the village of Askyfou, and eat at the legendary taverna, Nektarios. There is no menu, everything is locally produced, and the chef serves whatever he feels you should eat - it's always a pleasant surprise. I always visit the ceramics cafe, Visalo. They offer ceramics workshops, freshly baked cakes and coffee; I like the contrast of this modern approach in a very traditional setting. There is also a lovely coffee shop on my favorite beach in Sfakia - Ilingas beach. It's a beautiful pebble beach with a very discrete coffee bar concealed within a cave.
My Favorite Places of Architectural Interest: Monasteries
My favorite is the Arkadi Monastery, in the southeast region of Rethymnon - a sanctuary of the Cretan resistance during the Ottoman rule. It dates back to the 16th century with a very apparent Renaissance influence, a mix of Roman and Baroque elements. The surrounding gardens are also very rich and diverse.
My second favorite is the Monastery of Odigitria in South Heraklion, one of the oldest Monasteries on Crete, established in the 14th century. From there one can also visit the beach, Agiofarago, a small cove surrounded by giant rocks walls.
My Favorite Boat trip: Gavdos Island
There is no place more magic than Gavdos island, which is the southernmost point of Crete and also of Europe. Access to the island is not easy, but when you arrive you will enjoy a surreal, paradise-like experience. I love to visit the lighthouse at sunset, which oversees the entire island, and swim at Agios Ioannis beach. You can reach it by walking through an unreal landscape of sand and cedar trees.
My Favorite Local Crafts: Ceramics
I always look for local crafts in the places that I visit, for my work, and because of my passion for tradition and craftsmanship. Margarites village, in Rethymno, is full of ceramic craftsmen, offering giant olive pots, vases, and all kind of objects, new and old. Also, Tsourlakis, is a cement tile manufacturer that I closely work with for my interior projects. It is impressive how each tile, and also their design and color, are handmade. Their quality is just as impressive.
My Favorite Museum: Eleutherna Archeological Museum
I always try to visit this museum, which houses ancient artifacts found in the nearby archeological site of Eleutherna and the necropolis of Orthi Petra. Currently, they have an impressive exhibition on Pablo Picasso, hosting 62 of his works, drawings, prints and ceramics, converged with pieces from the museum. It shows the deep influence that Greek Mythology and antiquity had on Picasso and his work.