TRAVEL GUIDE | CABANA TRAVEL | CABANA MAGAZINE

The smallest Aeolian island, on the north-eastern coast of Sicily, Panarea is a bohemian car-free paradise with outstanding natural beauty, dramatic rock formations and just six miles from Europe's only constantly active volcano. Acclaimed photographer and Cabana's International Editor, Antonio Monfreda, shares an insider's guide.

BY ANTONIO MONFREDA | CABANA TRAVEL | 9 AUGUST 2024 

My Favorite Places to Stay

I love this new hotel, Nonna Cecilia. It's small and charming with a few beautiful rooms, with outdoor showers and outdoor day beds. It's simple and low key with great views.

Since coming under new ownership, the mythological Hotel Raya is a little less unique, but still a very beautiful place to stay. The manager Giovanni, who is Sicilian and extremely friendly, is a great guide. The top-floor bedrooms have breathtaking views and if the sea is too rough for swimming, the hotel's thermal infinity pool is a wonderful alternative. I also recommend the restaurant - the view from the Raya terrace may be one of the best in the Mediterranean!

My Favorite Places to Eat

For me, dinner is always better at home, but if we go out, I love a little local trattoria named Da Paolino. I recommend the pasta mille baci, made with local, rustic herbs picked by the owner during his winter walks. For lunch or dinner, Bridge Ammare serves classic Italian cuisine, quite literally 'pied dans l'eau' (on the water). If you're dining during a full moon, the moon will reflect on the sea of the bay.

I also love Pina, probably the first restaurant to have opened on Panarea. Pina's recipes are great and Giovanna, Pina's daughter, is now reinventing the tradition. For delicious sandwiches and picnics, I love La Sirena, and for sushi and drinks, head to Bridge, a sushi bar with fantastic views and a brilliant DJ. Roberto will take care of your drinks for the evening, and the night with always end with dancing.

My Favorite 'At-Home' Dining

Giuseppe di Adelina is a fantastic chef. Born and based in Panarea, he comes to cook at your place on request and the quality is really top notch. I met him 40 years ago and he just gets better and better. I also like O Palmo - if you call in the morning, they will deliver the most delicious couscous to your door (prepared by their Moroccan chef). Their restaurant is also very nice - simple, quiet and private.

My Favorite Places of Architectural Interest

If you look at the sea from Panarea, it’s as if a decorator came and decided to set the rocks in a beautiful, strategic way. It’s quite amazing to look at them and sometimes I got lost in them, especially during the sunset. The sun hits the rocks creating incredible colors similar to the Dolomites.

The different rocky islands - Basiluzzo, Spinazzola, Dattilo, Lisca Bianca, Pietra Nave - are best explored by renting a small boat and sailing around the island. From the sea, you will notice the rocks look like cathedrals. I love to go to this old church on the island sometimes too. I adore the old tales and the confessional is charming.

My Favorite Places to Shop

The boutique, Del Raya, is a must visit. It was the first ethnic-bohemian shop in Italy in the 1970s. It has a nice collection of garments for women made in Bali, and perfect white summer shirts for men. Here, it's all about the batik and the very famous 'bolla' pattern. I also love their antiques section for old fabrics and ceramics.

One of my other favorite spots is Penelope, owned by Barbara Calabresi who has lived on the island since the 1980s. She dyes her own fabrics like an alchemist. Each piece is unique and eco-friendly, I have a series of scarfs collected over the years.

For anything needed on a boat trip, from inflatable mattresses to candles, head to Da Nuccio, and I love the menswear at Bouganville. Owner, Antonio, has a great eye.

My Favorite Things to do

I love hiking and touring the island on foot. Follow the directions to Punta Corvo for a walk early in the morning or late in the afternoon: the view is astonishing, nature at its best. A visit to Villaggio Prehistoric is another nice excuse for a beautiful walk and destination. I also like to take a small boat and tour the island at 6am, stopping in the natural swimming pool of Cala Junco. At La Calcara beach you can spread warm mud over your body before washing it off with a swim.

I always make sure to spend some time in Lipari to see the archaeological museum and the beautiful Hellenic painting by the Pittore di Lipari, and by night I'll often visit Stromboli for magnificent views, it's the only constant active volcano in Europe.