POSTCARD FROM | CABANA TRAVEL | WORLD OF CABANA
Few places sparkle quite like Vienna at Christmas - indeed the Austrian capital is where Christmas markets originated, towards the end of the 13th century. Marta Heine-Geldern visits the city in full festive swing, sharing a postcard from Vienna’s famous Christmas markets, bakeries and museums.
BY MARTA HEINE-GELDERN | CABANA TRAVEL | 11 DECEMBER 2024
The scent of gluhwein, the warming taste of gingerbread, the glow of lights and decorations, and the symphony of carolling, cheer, and carousel bells - as the year draws to a close, the evenings get darker, and the cold sets in, there’s nothing like a Christmas market for lifting the spirits. They are beacons of warmth and welcome, full of the most enticing aromas, delicious flavors, beautiful gifts, and delightful experiences. There are Christmas markets all over the world now and, no doubt, all of these will help you beat the winter blues to some degree.
However, if you want authenticity, history, stunning surroundings and the guarantee of a magical experience, there is only one place I'd choose. Vienna is where Christmas markets began. Towards the end of the 13th century, Emperor Albrecht allowed citizens to hold a market throughout December to stock up on provisions for winter. Over the centuries, the idea travelled across Austria, Germany, and most of Europe. Gradually, it became more closely related to Christmas – and more recognisable to us – with the help of famous figures like Martin Luther and King Wenceslas IV.
Vienna’s Christmas markets don’t just boast a long, fascinating history. They continue to delight travellers of all ages thanks to their jaw-dropping settings, gorgeous decorations and huge array of offerings. While visiting some of Vienna’s more than 20 official markets, you can take in the magnificence of the Town Hall, Museum of Art, and Belvedere Palace. Given Vienna has so many amazing markets to choose from, the only hard part is deciding which one to head to first.
Top of my list would be the enormous market on Rathausplatz. This is the place you’d imagine if I asked you to close your eyes and picture a Christmas market. The adorable wooden huts serve every kind of festive treat imaginable, from classics such as sausage and roasted chestnuts, to unmissable novelties like champagne donuts! Other stalls offer artisanal gifts laid out in wicker baskets for loved ones (or yourself!) ranging from clothing to decorations – the sight of hand-made glass baubles twinkling in the warm glow of the market’s Christmas lights is magical.
Vienna's Am Hof market, full of festive wooden huts © Marta Heine-Geldern
There’s plenty to do for families and kids too, from a Ferris wheel, to free carol concerts, to an ice rink, to classes on baking and candle making. The Bussiplatz, with its decorated, heart-shaped tree in the centre of the market, is such a cheering sight it would thaw the heart of even the toughest Scrooge. Stand on the steps of the Burgtheater for a panoramic view of the market – and the best photo opportunity. A short walk east of the Rathausplatz will lead you to Graben, where stunning Christmas lights hang above this picturesque square.
Traditionally, the Graben lights have taken the shape of chandeliers. Sticking to this design, the city updated them in 2023, using more than a quarter of a million LED lights to make the square sparkle. The impression you get standing beneath them is of being in a huge, open-air ballroom. In fact, hang around until New Year’s Eve and you can take part in waltz lessons on the square. What better place to learn this exhilarating Viennese dance than beneath twinkling chandeliers and a frosty sky?
Christmas markets began in Vienna, as early as the 13th century © Marta Heine-Geldern
Heading southwest from here takes you through the majesty of the Maria-Theresien-Platz Christmas Market. The stalls here are like those you’ll find on the Rathausplatz. However, the magnificent backdrop of the Natural History and Art Museums means it’s worth a tour of this square – even if only for a photo.
Continue across Museumplatz, though, and head around the Leopold Museum for a hidden gem of a Christmas market – Spittelberg. This market is much smaller, more local, and more authentic than anywhere else in Vienna. It is in a historic neighbourhood that lays outside the old city walls and is the perfect place to pick up thoughtful gifts – stalls offer everything from merino wool hats, to artisanal incense, to wood carvings, to piggy banks. Otherwise, it’s a great place to take a break from traditional Christmas food and drink – a warming chai latte is a must.
Unfortunately, this being Europe in the winter, you cannot guarantee good weather; you also might just want a spot to warm yourself for a while. I was lucky enough to stumble on the Hotel Sacher on my tour of the Christmas markets. It’s conveniently located just behind the Opera House – perfect for diving into to escape the rain or snow. However, I’d recommend visiting in any case for its beautiful Christmas decorations and incredible restaurant – the Rote Bar. Stepping inside the Rote Bar is like travelling back in time to a magnificently luxurious, bygone age.
Don't miss Vienna's traditional sweet treats and bakeries © Marta Heine-Geldern
Wood-panelling, enormous gilt-framed mirrors, plush velvet chairs and sofas, thick, intricately patterned rugs, twinkling chandeliers, antique paintings, and excellent service will make you feel like royalty. It’s no surprise it’s in the Michelin Guide. A meal here is unmissable – order the classic Austrian dish Tafelspitz for your main and Sachertorte for dessert, and don’t forget a glass of Gruner Veltliner wine.
If you’re seeking more indoor destinations, you must visit Demel, a short walk from Hotel Sacher. This café-bakery has an incredible history, impressive architecture, sumptuous design and a menu of Austrian delicacies to satisfy anyone. Try the Kaiserschmarrn pancakes or one of the café’s tasty savoury dishes – just be sure to leave room for dessert or at least one of Demel’s hand-crafted chocolates.
When it comes to Christmas markets then, accept no substitutes. Head to any of these spots in Vienna for the most enchanting experience around. Just don’t forget to bring an empty suitcase! I left the city with more Viennese treats than I could carry.
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