TRAVEL GUIDE | CABANA TRAVEL | CABANA MAGAZINE
One of the Cyclades’ most elegant islands, Sifnos is known for its ceramics tradition and handsome villages. It is also a gourmand’s paradise where time-worn recipes in traditional tavernas meet contemporary restaurants and natural wine bars. Island regular Kate Lough shares her favorite haunts.
BY KATE LOUGH | CABANA TRAVEL | 14 AUGUST
Where to Stay
Psacharopoulos House, Artemonas: A five-minute walk into Artemonas, the island’s loveliest village, will bring you to Psacharopoulos House, a neoclassical mansion passed down through six generations of a family of artists. Packed with antique furniture and curiosities, the property offers authentic Sifnian character.
Chrisopigi Villa, Chrisopigi: The early 17th-century monastery at Chrisopigi is one of the most idyllic places to swim on Sifnos, so this villa is ideal for committed Thalassophiles. Traditional and characterful inside, it has beautiful Aegean views.
Thalatta, Faros: With extremely simple rooms just above Glyfo beach, Thalatta sits in the car-free settlement of Faros. You can walk to local dining hotspots, Betty’s, Pelicano’s and To Limanaki, as well as several beaches. The views make it.
Verina Astra, Poulati: Sifnos is not spoilt for hotels, but Verina Astra is the very best for those, especially couples, who want to go down the boutique route. Set above pretty Poulati, it has a showstopper infinity pool and a great restaurant.
Where to Eat & Drink
For a relatively small island, Sifnos punches above its weight when it comes to being fed and watered. These are some of my favorite spots.
Traditional tavernas for lunch
To Limanaki: Tables here spill out onto Faros’ diminutive harbour, with the family’s fishing boat tied up nearby. Head inside to pick your fish - lobster perhaps - and order ouzaki (little bottles of ouzo) alongside salads and dips.
Chrisopigi Taverna: If you continue around the coast from To Limanaki towards Apokofto beach, head for the no-frills Chrisopigi Taverna on the far right side of the beach - and swim off the monastery steps afterwards in the late afternoon light.
Manoli’s: On the western side of the island on Vathi beach, Manoli’s serves traditional Sifnian dishes like revithada (a chickpea stew) and kaperosalata (caper salad). Up in the north, Cheronissos Fish Taverna and To Vroulidia - if you can stomach the hairy drive down - are both very much worth a visit too.
Evening Spots
Loggia: Start your night in ancient Kastro, where natural wine bar Loggia spills down the hillside. It overlooks Saralia, Kastro’s old port, where across the tiny beach is Cantina, with perhaps the most beautiful setting of any restaurant in the Cyclades. Zero-waste and hyper locally sourced ingredients, you must book ahead.
Mosaico: Over in beautiful Artemonas, Mosaico is a buzzy choice for late night mezze and drinks. Or for something a little more refined, Omega 3 offers inventive fish-focused small plates and counter-style seating right on Platis Gialos beach.
What to See and Do
Visit Kastro: A stroll around Kastro, the island’s ancient capital is a must. Inhabited for more than 3000 years, its medieval Venetian fortress reveals a labyrinth of narrow streets, the ruins of an ancient acropolis and the Archaeological Museum.
Hiking: Sifnos’s beautiful landscape is criss-crossed by old hiking paths that link its main settlements. The island has more than 200km of paths, marked by xerolithies (dry stone walls) leading to towers, chapels, monasteries and secret beaches. From Poulati to Kastro is one of the best stretches to try, if the weather is cool enough.
Boating: Sifnos does not have an excessive amount of beaches, so it is a great island to explore by boat. Thanks to its central location in the Cyclades, it is also a good jumping off point for day trips to nearby islands: Milos, Polyegos and Kimolos.
Where to Shop
Sifnos is all about ceramics. There are still 20 active pottery studios on the island, many of which you can visit and see in action. My favourite is Atsonios just to the left of Vathi beach. Overlooking the water, this family-run studio still has a traditional kiln that has been in operation since 1870. Make sure to pick up some of their earthenware pots that are used throughout Sifnian kitchens today. Stop in at Julie Tzanni just outside Apollonia to buy the potter’s beautiful contemporary creations for the home.
Kate Lough is a freelance writer and editor based between Athens and London | Follow Kate on Instagram @kateloughstudio
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