MAKERS | ASIA | INDIA | TEXTILES

 

Ashdeen Lilaowala | Textile Designer 

 

 

Ashdeen Lilaowala is a Delhi-based fashion designer who has been a pioneering figure in the revival of Parsi embroidery known as Gara. Having arrived in India from Persia in the 18th century, the Parsi community developed this unique style due to their frequent trade with the imperial courts of China. Traditionally revelling in motifs such as pagodas, flying cranes, dragons and flowers, this rich, and until recently endangered art form, is enjoying a renaissance.

How did you begin?

I was enamoured by personal style, heirloom textiles, and the Gara since childhood, having grown up around Parsi women with exceptional taste—including my mother, sisters, aunts. After graduating in textile design from the National Institute of  Design, Ahmedabad, I worked with the UNESCO Parzor Foundation, journeying across Persia, China and India to trace the roots of the storied Parsi Gara embroidery. I started my own experiments with the Gara right after, eventually founding my label. 

How did you learn?

I learnt by immersing myself in the personal collections of women who generously opened their wardrobes to me, sharing not just textiles but also memories and stories. As I made my way across India, Iran and China, I discovered motifs, forms, and ideas that travelled across these diverse geographies and culminated in this beautiful craft that has mesmerised generations. I also learnt intricacies of the hand embroidery by working closely with craftspeople. The learning never stops, I continue to learn.

 

 

How do you plan, prepare and create?

I draw from the fountain of endless inspiration that is the Orient. That’s always the starting point. From there flow the motifs, flowers and textures, which I detail out with our team. Working with a ‘family’ of carefully-nurtured embroiderers who are each master of their craft, we then carry out experiments with embroidery in relation with the fabrics always ensuring that the result is fluid yet rich.

Who or what most influences your work?

I am influenced by the independent -thinking Indian woman who has a strong sense of personal style and is not beholden to fashion and trends. She loves to dress up, cares about textiles and heritage, and treasures her classics.

What is a typical day?

A typical day is spent mostly at the studio with my team of designers, karigars (embroiders) and other specialists. I am very hands on, getting into every aspect of the business, much to the chagrin of my team. Storytelling is an important part of what we do and I am very passionate about it. This involves shoots, styling and creating an identity for the brand with its decidedly Parsi DNA.

An object you cherish?

My mother’s black Gara (traditonal Parsi sari), which is a family heirloom that I have now inherited. It has been hand-embroidered by my father’s grandmother. It has golden yellow flowers and is the pride and joy of our family.

One more thing... An artist you'd collect if you could?

I absolutely love Salman Toor’s imaginative narratives washed in green hues. I also enjoy Madhavi Parekh’s folk art mixed with Indian myths.

 

 

Words by Cosmo Brockway
Images by Ashdeen Lilaowala

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