Postcard from Amorgos

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Arriving at Katapola port in Amorgos, the easternmost island of the Cyclades, always strikes a chord in the heart. The island's remote position in the archipelago and its peculiar geological features, convey a mystical feeling that will persist throughout your stay, writes Fabrizia Caracciolo.

BY FABRIZIA CARACCIOLO | CABANA TRAVEL | 15 NOVEMBER 2024 

Amorgos is the easternmost island of the Cyclades and should be reached with the iconic Small Cyclades Line, whose vessel, Express Skopelitis, has been crossing Greek waters since 1956. Arriving at Katapola port always strikes a chord in the heart.

Its remote position in the archipelago, and its peculiar geological features, not only make the island unique but also convey to the visitor a mystical feeling that persists throughout the entire length of one's stay. You feel suspended in time in a fascinating and mysterious surrounding that is difficult to grasp.

Katapola and Chora are the two poles of the island, linked by the only road that crosses the entire island. The 10-minute drive offers one of the Mediterranean's most breathtaking views, and sunsets. It is difficult to choose to stay in one or the other since they offer very different experiences but are equally captivating.

The fact that there are no fancy hotels or vibrant nightlife has preserved the island from masses of tourists. Its very relaxed atmosphere makes the traveler return to simplicity in a natural and satisfying way.

A day in Amorgos would start with a long Greek coffee and the most delicious yogurt at the legendary Kamari Café on the port of Katapola, overlooking the movements of the boats and people arriving on the island. Then one could easily walk to one of the most beautiful spots to swim, which is at a little church on the far side of the bay.

I would recommend stopping by Dimitris at the end of the village for the best grilled fish ever. There are many spots for unforgettable swimming experiences, like Agia Anna, Mouros with the most beautiful taverna overhanging the cliffs. Further down the coast, after a scenic drive with dramatic sea views and beautiful countryside, one reaches Kalotaritissa. There, a charming fisherman boat awaits. Run by a local family, it will sail to a beautiful and deserted tiny island just in front.

On the way back, one could stop to visit Pyrgos located in the middle of the island. Its ruins and Tower date back to the fourth Century BC. The local taverna "Ston Pyrgo" serves the best traditional food, and the owner has the key to open the site.

The most outstanding feature of the island that one cannot miss is definitely its Monastery. It gives the island its reputation for its unique position hanging like a bird's nest between the blues of the sky and sea. From that viewpoint, one easily understands why the island was chosen as the filming location for the famous "Le Grand Bleu" movie, exploring the depths of the Mediterranean.

The most pleasant time to stroll through the Chora is at sunset. The white homes of the village line narrow streets peppered with lovely spots to stop for a drink. But don't forget to dine at the far end of the village in the lovely square beneath the shade of the trees in front of the charming little church because there lies the best tavern.

And if you fancy a nightcap in Katapola, the groovy vibe of Moon Bar awaits you with a mixed crowd of sailors, travelers, and locals, accompanied by one of the best music selections you'll find on the Cycladic Islands.