A WEEKEND IN | CABANA TRAVEL | WORLD OF CABANA

 

Cradled in the majestic Andes at a staggering 3,400 metres above sea level, the ancient city of Cusco is quite literally breathtaking. Once the capital of the Incan Empire, Cusco today is more famous for being the gateway to Machu Picchu and the Valle Sagrado (Sacred Valley). Joe Pickard explores the spectacular mountainous region, which draws visitors for its pre-Hispanic ruins, craft heritage, burgeoning food scene and clutch of luxury hotels.

 

BY JOE PICKARD | CABANA TRAVEL | 23 MAY 2025

 

Where to Stay

Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel: Tucked into the luscious cloud forest on the edge of the town of Machu Picchu Pueblo, this luxury eco-hotel is designed to feel like a traditional Andean village. Cottage-like casitas constructed from local stone and wood – some of which have roaring log fires and their own private plunge pools – are scattered throughout the 12 acres of rambling grounds where hummingbirds flit between the dripping foliage and jewel-like orchids. Guests can take advantage of guided nature excursions or relax in the spa listening to the mighty Urubamba river roar through the valley below.

Monasterio, A Belmond Hotel: Housed in a meticulously restored 16th-century monastery in the heart of Cusco, Hotel Monasterio retains many original architectural details, including a 1595 Baroque chapel and countless Colonial-era paintings and religious artefacts. Boasting 117 rooms and suites as well as several acclaimed dining venues arranged around a series of cloistered courtyards – including one with a fountain and 300-year-old cedar tree – this is one of the city’s most luxurious addresses.

Explora Valle Sagrado: Part of The Explora group – which made a name for itself by offering off-grid experiences in remote landscapes across South America – this lodge deep in the Valle Sagrado is designed to blend in with its surroundings and maximise the views from its rooms. The restaurant serves a menu crafted by Virgilio Martínez (see MIL, below) and guests can take advantage of more than 40 different guided explorations.

El Albergue, Ollantaytambo: Despite sitting next to the station in Ollantaytambo that whisks travellers to Machu Picchu (guests can eat breakfast while watching passengers alight the train on the platform directly outside), this cosy hotel with its adobe walls, exposed wooden beams and terracotta roofs rambling through a peaceful garden is a haven of tranquillity. The property has its own organic farm and a stay here feels like stepping back into the golden era of travel. 

What to See & Do

ALQA Museo de Arte Popular Andino, Ollantaytambo: Another reason to linger a bit longer in Ollantaytambo, this gem of a museum - founded by Peruvian designer Johana Sarmiento and Italian photographer Antonio Sorrentino - is dedicated to preserving and showcasing the traditional artistic expressions of indigenous Andean communities. It boasts a meticulously curated collection of textiles, pottery, and paintings that narrate the stories and traditions of the region, and has an excellent restaurant and shop. 

Cusco cathedral: Like many colonial buildings in Cusco, the imposing cathedral on the city’s main square, Plaza de Armas, was built on the foundations of an Inca ceremonial palace. There are many wonderful artworks on display but look out for the 1753 version of The Last Supper by Peruvian painter Marcos Zapata which features the familiar scene with a few distinctly Peruvian items on the menu – including roasted cuy (guinea pig).

Maras salt mines: One of the few sites in the world to extract naturally pink salt, the Maras Salt Mines, or Salineras de Maras, have been in use since Inca times and are still operated by local families today. The site features more than 3,000 small, shallow pools filled with saltwater sourced from a natural underground spring. Visitors can observe the traditional salt-harvesting process, which involves allowing the water to evaporate in the sun, leaving behind crystallized salt.

Traditional Textile Centre of Peru: The Centro de Textiles Tradicionales in Cusco is dedicated to preserving and revitalizing the ancient art of Andean weaving. Visitors can witness live weaving demonstrations, explore beautifully crafted textiles, and learn about the symbolic patterns and natural dyeing techniques used in traditional Andean clothing. The centre also has a museum and a fair-trade store, where visitors can purchase pieces directly from the artisans.

Machu Picchu: A UNESCO site, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World and arguably the most iconic spot in Peru (if not the entire continent), Machu Picchu needs no introduction – and no trip to the Sacred Valley would be complete without making a pilgrimage to the ancient city. Constructed in the 15th century – and often referred to as the Lost City of the Inca, due to the fact that it remained hidden for hundreds of years until it was ‘rediscovered’ in 1911 – it clings improbably to its vertiginous mountainside like something out of a dream. A hidden gem this is not – the site receives around a million visitors every year – but there is simply no other place quite like it.

Where to Eat & Drink

MIL: Moray Virgilio Martínez’s restaurant in Lima, Central, was voted the world’s best in 2023. Known for his innovative approach to cuisine, Martínez has long championed Peru’s native ingredients. He opened MIL in 2018, working closely with indigenous farmers and producers to serve a tasting menu that celebrates high-altitude ingredients sourced from the Andes. A beautifully-designed space overlooking the archaeological site of Moray, with its remarkable Inca agricultural terraces and the towering mountains beyond, this is a very special spot. Reservations are often required months in advance. 

Florencia y Fortunata: Peru is one of the world’s top-producing coffee countries and there are few better places to taste the riches of its bounty than Florencia y Fortunata near the Plaza de Armas in Cusco. This sleekly designed, female-owned café and bakery housed in a beautiful colonial building (said to be the home of Peru’s first female lawyer) aims to promote the visibility of women in speciality coffee and serves beans from different regions across the country including Cusco and Cajamarca.

MAP Café: The Museo de Arte Precolombino houses an extensive collection of pre-Hispanic art and artefacts from various indigenous cultures of Peru including ceramics, textiles, and sculpture. A glass box in the courtyard houses the museum’s café and restaurant – a striking space serving up exquisitely presented dishes and cocktails.

Oculto, Cusco: True to its name, (oculto means ‘hidden’ in Spanish) this refined restaurant and natural wine bar is something of a hidden gem. Delicious sharing plates are paired with a curated selection of Peruvian wines and craft cocktails that showcase local herbs, all served up in an elegant and intimate space. 

Latente, Ollantaytambo: For many travelers, Ollantaytambo is simply a point of transit on the way to Machu Picchu (the train departs from here) but it’s worth spending a few hours exploring the ancient streets and archeological sites of this vibrant village. Another reason to linger is Latente, a chic café serving expertly crafted speciality coffee. 

Mauka: Located in Palacio Nazarenas – another of Belmond’s properties in Cusco – Mauka opened in 2023 and soon established itself as one of the city’s most exciting dining destinations. Chef Pía León, who was named the best female chef in the world in 2021 (and also happens to be married to Virgilio Martínez), runs the celebrated Kjolle restaurant in Lima and brings her signature flair to Mauka

Chicha por Gastón Acurio: Helmed by renowned Peruvian chef Gastón Acurio, Chicha showcases traditional Peruvian flavours with a contemporary twist. You'll find classic dishes reimagined with innovative techniques, using fresh, local ingredients.

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