TRAVEL GUIDE | CABANA TRAVEL | CABANA MAGAZINE
The beautiful island of Patmos has long attracted pilgrims and travellers, all drawn by its historic significance, rugged natural beauty and bohemian spirit. Dimitrios Soutsos, founder of Patmos Heritage, shares an insider's guide, a must-read for anyone planning their own Patmos adventure.
BY DIMITRIOS SOUTSOS | CABANA TRAVEL | 10 JULY 2024
Themeli Mansion, Patmos Heritage
Where to Stay
Patmos Heritage: A collection of historic mansions in Chora, which I personally restored over the years. Xanthos is said to have been the home of the founder of the secret society that led the Greek Independence - his statue can be found outside the house on the city hall square; Themeli was the home of a significant member of the society and a General in the Greek Independence of 1821; and Economou was the formal residence where the monastery would host its financial advisors.
Pagostas Mansion: A beautiful historic mansion in Chora, run by Maria Laimos, owner of Mouki Mou design shop (London, Athens) and her charming husband, Grigoris. Designed by Leda Anthanasopoulou, of Studio Pale, the mansion features three guest rooms.
Patmos360: Historic mansions with purist renovations by renowned architect, Katerina Tsigarida. Stefania Mansion, Forno Majore and Forno Minore are run by her children.
ONAR: For a quiet, rural escape, check into this cabana-style hotel with just six rooms. It has a pool, and an almost-private beach right in front of the property. There is no road or noise, just star-filled evening walks and peaceful mornings.
Where to Eat
Floisvos Restaurant: Perched on top of a little hill in Groikos bay and family-run by beautiful, courteous people, Floisvos is a true example of excellent Greek cuisine and hospitality. Book a table on Saturdays where the family plays live music and friends join impromptu with instruments and singing. It's also ideal for 'full moon nights' as you have a direct view of the moon rising and reflecting on the sea.
Vangelis Restaurant: The 'Plateia' - the main square of Chora where all the characters of Patmos gather at night - is the perfect place to people watch, but all the better from the safety of a table at Vangelis. This charming restaurant, run by the same family for four generations, serves delicious modern Greek cuisine.
Diakoftó Taverna: A simple taverna right on the water; a charming place to watch the sunset, illuminated by atmospheric strings of fairy lights.
Benetos Restaurant in Sapsila: Patmos-born Benetos is the chef-owner of his eponymous restaurant in Sapsila. Formerly his home, Benetos still maintains a flat above the restaurant and grows his own veggies here, and in other plots he owns around the island. You'll find excellent food and service in a beautiful garden.
The little hut Livadi Kalogiron: A canteen on a small hill at the edge of the beach - a must-visit at sunset for a cold beer, salad and fries or fried calamari. The vibe is very casual and relaxed; cash only and no washroom facilities.
What to See & Do
Nikolaidis Mansion Museum: Built in the 17th and 18th centuries, this house museum holds a permanent exhibition of archaeological finds and photographic archives, which offer an insight into Patmos' history. It is also a beautiful example of traditional Patmos architecture, from its bottle-shaped water cisterns and clay tiled wood oven, to its gorgeous, Ottoman-inspired 'ambataros' (a colorful wooden partition that conceals a bed and very elaborately decorated storage area).
Arxontiko Simantiri: Dating back to 1625, the Simantiris Mansion is the oldest in Chora and paints a picture of the prosperity of noble life on the island.
Monastery of St. John the Theologian: Book a private tour to see millennium-old wall paintings at this Monastery in Chora, founded in 1088. Private access to its library can be arranged; it holds historic books, publications and hand drawn texts.
Nunnery of Annunciation: Evangelismos - visit the grounds of this miniature newly constructed medieval castle where 40 nuns observe the quiet life of asceticism.
Patoinos Winery: Tour the only winery in Patmos, built on the land of a monastery. Here, Josef Zysiades began to produce wine based on the variety of Greek grapes.
Psilli Ammos Beach: Hike across a rocky trail and you'll be rewarded with a picturesque sandy bay, one of the most beautiful and remote beaches on the island. With a simple beach taverna and natural shade from the Tamarisk salt cedar trees, it is the perfect place to spend the day.
Patmos Marine: The traditional shipyard of Patmos - 'Tarsanas' in Greek – is one of a handful of surviving shipyards in Greece capable of restoring and building traditional boats. Patmos Marine is run by Sozon Kamitsis who has also built the very first traditional all-electric solar boat.
Our Marbled Enamelware onboard S/Y Agios Nikolaos traditional 'karavoskaro' vessel
Where to Shop
A&Ω jewellery: Visit this store in Patmos' capital, Chora, to discover unique pieces of jewellery, and, especially, their etchings on glass.
Monastery of St. John the Theologian: Visit the small shop at St John's Monastery to buy pure beeswax taper candles that have a wonderful scent.
Katerina Mourati: Her story is bonded to that of Patmos, when she discovered the island at the age of 20 and with that her artistic talent. She is a painter primarily but lately has been co-creating these very special hand sewn earrings and cuffs, using a very old traditional patmian stitching method that only very few still know.
Andreas Kalantzis Gallery: A resident artist - trained in iconography, which he transforms into contemporary art - Andreas Kalantzis started his eponymous gallery to showcase Greek art. He hosts multiple Greek artists, and local Patmos artists, and interesting finds. A great place to drop in for a browse and a chat.