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Antique dealer Johann Wanner is something of a Christmas connoisseur. His intensely atmospheric store in Basel is part cabinet of curiosities, part Santa's workshop, inspired by his travels through Turkey, Syria and Egypt, and fond nostalgia for his grandmother's "kitschy, colorful decorations". Prepare to enter Johann's Christmas Wonderland...
BY LUCREZIA LUCAS | CABANA TRAVEL | 24 DECEMBER 2024
Red and white mouth-blown ornaments from Europe.
At Christmas, Basel’s cobbled streets take on a sparkle that feels plucked from a snow-globe, with twinkling lights dancing on the Rhein and the scent of mulled wine and cinnamon wafting through its medieval squares and Christmas markets (yes, plural!). Known for its rich cultural heritage and vibrant festive traditions, Basel is undoubtedly one of Switzerland's most magical winter getaways.
Sitting within this festive wonderland is Johann Wanner’s Christmas House, a veritable Aladdin’s Cave for nostalgia-seekers and the imaginatively minded. From floor to ceiling, its warren of narrow rooms overflow with mouth-blown baubles in every conceivable hue and shape, each promising to transform the mundane tree into a decorative masterpiece. The atmosphere is richly theatrical: glass cabinets gleam with jewel-toned ornaments, while vintage nutcrackers and dolls stand sentry over the scene. It feels less like a store and more like a Christmas grotto meets cabinet of curiosities, orchestrated by a Swiss Santa.
Johann Wanner, the 'Swiss Santa' behind this glittering empire, is now something of a Christmas connoisseur. His passion began in his youth, inspired by his travels through Turkey, Syria, Egypt, and beyond. Initially trading in carpets, Wanner developed a keen eye for antiques, which eventually led him to the world of Christmas collectibles. “In the 1960s, Scandinavian style dominated Christmas trees, but I really missed the kitschy, colorful decorations I’d known from my grandmother,” he recalls. “So I went looking.”
That nostalgia-driven search grew into a lifelong passion for festive ornaments and curiosities, with Wanner also working with glass factories in the Sudetenland, the DDR and Czechoslovakia.
Today, Wanner’s shop is a treasure trove for collectors, featuring rare 18th-century dolls and wax figures, delicate glass baubles and birds, Dresden paper ornaments, and hand-painted tin soldiers, all emanating the Christmas spirit. With a reputable clientele, having worked for Fortnum & Mason and Galeries Lafayette, even the White House and the Vatican have turned to Wanner for festive guidance.
“[The White House and Vatican] sent people to do background checks on me,” he laughs. “We brought a 25-meter Christmas tree from the Schwarzwald to Rome with police protection—over the Gotthard Tunnel, no less!”
The young, and young at heart, will be happy to learn that Wanner’s Christmas House is a year-round haven for all things festive. So, if you and yours have chosen to spend some time skiing the snowy mountain peaks of Switzerland, or eating Swiss fondue – perfected over centuries – be sure to visit this enchanting grotto. You might just find holiday heirlooms for generations to come.
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