Postcard from Plovdiv, Bulgaria

INSPIRATION | CABANA TRAVEL | WORLD OF CABANA

"If you want to discover an East European city, which is still a little under-the-radar, I highly recommend a stop in Plovdiv," says photographer Joanna Maclennan who's long been captivated by Bulgaria's rich cultural history and photogenic painted houses. She shares beautiful images and a tips-filled postcard from Plovdiv.

BY JOANNA MACLENNAN | CABANA TRAVEL | 30 JANUARY 2026

I first went to Bulgaria – a country with a rich cultural history that is, unfortunately, often overlooked – in 2018, to shoot the house of fellow photographer and friend, Tim Clinch, for my book, The Foraged Home. I didn't know it then, but that first visit would lead to many regular visits to Bulgaria over the years, running photography workshops and doing photo shoots, like Velyan’s house in Bansko (shot for Cabana Magazine).

Plovdiv, the second largest city in Bulgaria, lies along the Maritsa River and is situated amid six hills that rise from the Thracian Plain. It is around an hour and a half from Sofia, and to the South are the infamous Rhodope Mountains. When I first arrived in Plovdiv, after a very long journey from Veliko Turnovo, my first impressions were that it was just another city. Then we drove up into the old town, with its cobblestone streets and coloured ottoman houses, and I knew that I was going to love it.

Our hotel was right in the heart of the old town, one of the oldest hotels now called ‘Old Legends’ but not one to choose if you want modern amenities, but for those who love ‘old world’ it’s a must stay. Plovdiv was named European City in 2019 and they are proud to have received this honour. If you love history then a weekend in this city is perfect.

Plovdiv's history dates back to the Thracians and is dotted with ancient ruins including the stunning Roman Theatre that is still in use, medieval walls and towers, old Ottoman Turkish Baths and Mosques (Dzhumaya Mosque in particular) dating back to the C15th. I have been three times to Plovdiv now and I love spending a long weekend here.

My favorite thing to do is visit all the Ottoman houses in the old town and wander through the cobbled streets with a camera. The mansions were built in the 18th to 19th centuries by wealthy Bulgarian, Greek and Armenian merchants who travelled far and wide.

The architecture was influenced by the Ottoman style although Bulgarian researchers label the style ‘Plovdiv Baroque’. The merchants wanted to build luxurious houses with the idea of impressing visitors. These richly ornamental houses have become emblematic of Old Town Plovdiv. Three of my favourites are firstly the house of Nikola Nedkovich built in 1863, which I fondly call the ‘yellow house’.

A house that brings me joy from the stencilled portico entrance, to the sunlight traversing the windows and gently dappling on the faded furniture - filled with original pieces and personal items from the Nedkovich family including the famous Kotel carpets.

Secondly, the house of the wealthy Armenian merchant Stepan Hindliyan ('the blue house’), which is just an absolute delight. Most of its rooms are filled with wall paintings depicting lavish faraway locations. There is also a beautiful hammam.

The family left in 1915 leaving it to Armenian families fleeing the Ottoman Empire. It was restored in 1974 with C19th furniture. I can’t recommend this enough. My third favourite is the Old Pharmacy of Dr Sotir Antoniadi that closed its doors in 1947 - a two storey building with dozens of apothecary bottles, herbs, instruments and a small courtyard filled with medicinal flowers and herbs. A wonder to visit and photograph!

Not only is Plovdiv steeped in history but the cultural scene is pretty good too. From coffee shops to cocktail bars, from fountains dotted around the city to a large open park. The Kapana district, which comes alive at night, is a great place to eat and people watch. We had a fabulous meal at Pavaj. We also had a good meal at the Hemingway restaurant in the main town and for lunch there is a restaurant in the park called Central Park.

For a great Turkish coffee and pastries, be sure to go and hang out at the coffee shop at the Dzhumaya Mosque, which is also a wonderful spot for people watching. If you want to discover an East European city, which is still a little under-the-radar, I would highly recommend a stop in Plovdiv. And to extend your trip, from the city you can discover the magical Rhodope Mountains or, in June, even visit the Rose Festival.