MAKERS | EUROPE | ITALY | TEXTILES
Marta Cucchia | Embroiderer

In Perugia’s first Franciscan church, once home to Saint Francis and later a mill, now stands the Atelier Giuditta Brozzetti. Marta Cucchia, fourth generation, preserves the “tovaglia alla peroscina,” a medieval sacred embroidery once famed across Europe, nearly erased by Pope Paul III’s ban, kept alive today through storytelling and cultural memory.
How did you begin?
It’s a family story. My father bought the assets of a bankrupt majolica company at auction, mainly for the ware- houses next to the former convent, not the church itself. Maintaining the national monument was challeng- ing, but it proved ideal for the business founded by my great-grandmother, Giuditta Brozzetti, in 1921.
She was the first of four generations of women—including me—determined to be entrepreneurs and preserve an almost extinct tradition. In 1996, I moved the workshop into the church. At the time, I was in Milan studying design and hadn’t intended to inherit the business, but when my mother planned to close it, I asked to learn to weave, hoping to save what could be saved.

And how did you learn to weave?
Since childhood, I was involved in the family business, whether I wanted to be or not, but all the women in my family, starting with the founder, had run it as entrepreneurs—none of them knew how to weave. My great-grandmother, Giuditta Brozzetti, joined a revival of Umbrian embroidery and lace-making, which, after centuries of splendor beginning in the Middle Ages, had declined. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, certain enlightened women invested in weaving as both a social project and a cultural rediscovery.
Their goal was to emancipate women weavers, who had inherited the craft out of poverty to support their families. A key principle of the revival was economic independence: workers had their own postal accounts, so wages went directly to them rather than husbands or fathers. My great-grandmother enforced this rule.
The full interview appears in the new issue of the magazine: Cabana Issue 25.
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Interview by Sara Pierdonà
Images from Manfredi Gioacchini