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Italian Excellence: The Story of Rubelli 

 

Rubelli, San Polo fabric for the 1600th anniversary of Venice.

 

Rubelli is a name well known to two distinct audiences: those with an intimate knowledge of Venice and its hidden gems, and textile connoisseurs who never tire of its sumptuous damasks, velvets, and intricately woven silks. Its workshops are steeped in history and have always remained family-run; one might say they represent a textbook example of that much-vaunted Italian excellence. It comes as no surprise that Bulgari, a house of similarly long standing heritage and an equally unwavering commitment to quality, so often selects Rubelli as a partner for collaborations – the latest being the forthcoming covers of Cabana Issue 25.

Rubelli’s history is long and storied: the first official record (documenting Giovanni Paolo Rubelli’s admission to the Venetian silk merchants’ guild) dates back to 1781, although its true origins reach much further into the past. According to legend, the surname “Rubelli” derives from rubio, the name of the rich red dye once used to color the sails of la Serenissima’s fleet – indeed, the company supplied fabrics for Venice's galleys.

Production later moved to its present headquarters in Como, following the advent of mechanical looms, yet Venice has retained the archive and foundation (still open to visitors by appointment), where historical treasures are preserved. Among them are early velluti a inferriata (the very same seen in paintings by Tintoretto) alongside more recent creations, including collaborations with eminent artists and designers such as Gio Ponti for the Venice Biennale. Some pieces are so exceptionally valuable that they are handled, quite literally, with white gloves when displayed.  

 

Rubelli, San Polo fabric for the 1600th anniversary of Venice.

 

On the one hand, everything is carried out as it always has been, including the system of apprenticeship; on the other, new ideas have gradually found their way into this centuries-old practice – most notably a commitment to environmental sustainability, along with the introduction of fibres previously unknown to tradition, such as hemp, which requires significantly less water to cultivate. 

Within the workshops stand four handlooms dating from the late eighteenth century, still in use today, albeit at their own unhurried pace (as such looms produce on average no more than 10 to 15 centimetres of fabric per day). On the floor below, by contrast, are more than 20 state-of-the-art looms responsible for the bulk of production. Yet it is precisely this coexistence of the historical and the cutting-edge that defines Rubelli’s identity, dual in nature yet perfectly cohesive. As any textile expert will appreciate, the process profoundly shapes the final result: consider, for instance, colour, which emerges from the interplay of warp and weft, rather like a contemporary pixel, where each individual intersection contributes to the overall design, one thread at a time.

Cabana Issue N25: covers in collaboration with Bvlgari, by the Venetian textile house.

Many archival fabrics have been reinterpreted and adapted for modern looms, the most recent being a contemporary take on a chinoiserie, based on an original 1930s piece preserved in the Foundation. When one speaks of the archive, one refers to a collection of over 1000 items, offering virtually limitless creative potential. Rubelli’s most renowned evergreen is, almost inevitably, called “San Marco”: a silk damask that has likely never been discontinued since its creation, centuries ago. 

Alongside these, new textiles are developed by the in-house design studio, which for the past three years has been joined by the Milan-based FormaFantasma, whose work has notably focused on enlivening colour palettes and refining textures. Each year, Rubelli unveils a new collection, further enriching its vast and magnificent heritage.  

Rubelli backdrops for BVLGARI POLYCHROMA, 2025.

 

Interview by Sara Pierdonà

Images courtesy Rubelli

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