A Weekend in Cyprus

TRAVEL GUIDE | CABANA TRAVEL | CABANA MAGAZINE

London-based Cypriot designer, Murude Katipoglu, shares her favorite places and spaces in her native Cyprus, an island to which she returns often. From the most beautiful villages, far from the tourist traps, to design-led restaurants, Ottoman caravanserai architecture, Turkish handicrafts and traditional Cypriot cuisine, Murude offers an insider's perspective.

BY MURUNDE KATIPOGLU | CABANA TRAVEL | 21 OCTOBER 2024

Where to Stay

Kyrenia: When in Cyprus, I stay in Lapta, Kyrenia. I believe Kyrenia is the ideal location if you want to be close to the sea, shops and excellent restaurants.

Gillham Vineyard Hotel: For some peace and quiet, Gillham Vineyard Hotel is an excellent (adults-only) place to stay. Nestled in the mountains, it’s a fantastic spot for Cypriot wine tasting and elevated cuisine at the Chef’s Table Restaurant, featuring local ingredients. It’s worth visiting, even if only to enjoy a glass of wine while taking in the stunning views of the mountains and sea below.

Bellapaïs, Karmi or Esentepe: Consider staying in the beautiful Bellapais, Karmi or Esentepe areas, all nestled in the mountains but a short drive to the city and the seaside. Instead of hotels, which can feel touristy and lacking in inspiration, I suggest hiring a villa in these areas. This way you can experience Cyprus like a local. You'll need to hire a car, as getting around can be challenging without one.

Where to Eat

Gave: Gave, Kyrenia, offers the best Cypriot breakfast spread. It’s my go-to breakfast spot; if you’ve never tried a Cypriot breakfast before, prepare yourself for a variety of delicious, freshly made pastries, homemade jams, and a selection of cheeses including halloumi, and much more. Gave is located in a residential area and is inspired by the traditional 'Gave' (coffee) houses, where locals would gather.

The House Restaurant: Nestled in the heart of Kyrenia, The House Restaurant occupies a historic building dating back to the British colonial era of Cyprus (1878-1960). The building has been thoughtfully restored and transformed into a stylish dining destination with a menu offering that features both international cuisine and traditional Cypriot dishes. Each room is uniquely designed, creating an intimate, distinctive atmosphere. On the lower ground floor, you’ll even find an art gallery.

Bellapaïs Gardens: With its charming setting and exquisite cuisine, Bellapaïs is a must-visit for a blend of local flavor and elegance. Chef Selim, who owns the restaurant with his brother, is very friendly and passionate about his food.

Archway Restaurant: For an authentic taste of Cypriot tradition, Archway's traditional meze and meat dishes are perfect. Dinner in Cyprus is a leisurely affair, often extending over 3-4 hours. It starts with cold meze, followed by hot meze and plenty of freshly charcoal-cooked meat. Be prepared for a generous feast.

Treasure Restaurant: A meal at the Treasure Restaurant, a former primary school converted into a dining venue, provides one of the most picturesque views.

Old Harbour: I always enjoy an aperitif at the Old Harbour by Girne Castle. As the sun sets and the harbour comes alive with evening lights, there's no better place to sip a drink or enjoy a late-night ice cream and soak in the vibrant atmosphere.

Where to Shop

Büyük Han, Nicosia: One of the most iconic buildings on the island, Büyük Han is the best-preserved example of Ottoman caravanserai architecture in Cyprus. It has been transformed into a vibrant space filled with shops with a wide range of Turkish Cypriot handicrafts and souvenirs, a great place for authentic local products.

Arasta Street: A pedestrianised street near the Büyük Han, this is a great place for a stroll and browse of local handicrafts, textiles, souvenirs, and Turkish delights. It is a touristy part of town, but still good to visit and experience the atmosphere.

Dereboyu Street: One of North Nicosia’s main shopping streets, it offers a lively mix of international brands, local boutiques, restaurants and cafés.

What to See and Do

Bellapaïs Monastery: Perched gracefully on the hillside of Bellapaïs, the monastery here offers more than just a glimpse into the island's medieval past.

Karmi: I love starting my days with sunrise walks and a morning dip in the crystal-clear sea—these rituals never fail to put me in a great mood. Wandering through Karmi has always been a highlight. With its well-preserved architecture, this mountaintop village offers a fascinating glimpse into the island's past and present.

The Old Kyrenia Harbour: This is one of the most beautiful spots in Cyprus, full of history and charm. Once used as Venetian homes and carob warehouses, the buildings around the harbour are now lively restaurants and cafés. It’s a must-visit when you’re in Cyprus, both during the day and at night. I recommend arriving before sunset so you can enjoy the changing atmosphere as the light softens.

Kyrenia Castle: Next to the harbour is Kyrenia Castle, built mostly during the Venetian rule in the late 15th century. Inside the castle you’ll find a shipwreck from 300 BC. Found by divers in 1965, the ancient ship was carrying goods like almonds and wine, giving us a unique look into ancient trade. While the castle is amazing to explore, I'd avoid visiting during the hot summer days, as it can be too warm to walk around. Spring, autumn, and winter are the best times to visit.