Winter Sun: A Postcard from Fès

INSPIRATION | CABANA TRAVEL | WORLD OF CABANA

With the northern hemisphere feeling distinctly frosty, our minds are wandering to warmer climes, winter sun and thoughts of New Year travel. Photographer Joanna Maclennan makes a strong case for the inexorable pull of Fès, sharing a tips-filled postcard and set of arresting images from the mystical Moroccan city. 

BY JOANNA MACLENNAN |  CABANA TRAVEL | 19 DECEMBER 2025

It feels like a return to Morocco. Last year I wrote a postcard for Cabana about my travels to Tangier, and this year saw me returning to Fès - one of Morocco's largest cities. A UNESCO world heritage site with one of the oldest medinas in the world dating back to the ninth century, it is a fortified city surrounded by impressive ramparts. Fès tends to fly slightly beneath the radar, but for me it's a place I love returning to.

I first visited 13 years ago for a photography workshop and remember feeling overwhelmed by the labyrinth of narrow streets. This time, with insider Jeanne Biehn as my guide, I discovered more of the heartbeat of the city: the winding streets, the city early in the morning right through to the evening just as the sun sets. Depending what time you set out, the medina presents itself in many different ways.

I stayed at the Jardin des Biehn, a family-owned riad in the heart of the medina. A haven of peace, it is home to the incredible textile and artifact collection of the late Michel Biehn, whose legacy lives on in every corner. The rooms overlook the garden, the trees are laden with oranges and lemons, you are treated and looked after like family, and you feel both outside in nature and cocooned from the hustle and bustle of the medina. Jeanne has also curated the most beautiful shop inside for clients.

As with Marrakech, as soon as you step outside into the medina, the pace immediately changes. You are suddenly alert to an explosion of sensations. It is a different world in the medina, with its high walls – a world within a world – and worth popping your head out to get a sense of the rolling mountains surrounding Fès. It is only then that you see, and fully understand, how the medina descends.

It truly is a sensory explosion within these walls – from the bustling street stalls in the different souks and fondouks to the banging of copper in Place Seffarine and the smells coming from Souk el attarine, filled with herbs and spices. Then there are the local food stalls too, and the sprawling tanneries. A real experience, the tanneries are not for the faint hearted and for an extra price you can get really close to the open vats.

There is a market for everything in Fès and I came away with some fabulous Kilims and Berber jewellery. Remember to take your time (not the first price), and don’t be pushed around. Reputable places will ship your carpets (4-5 days) for around 70 euros.

When it comes to eating, I highly recommend the Cafe Fondouk and its lovely terrace, a great winter sun spot on a pleasant day. For good traditional food in beautiful surroundings, try the Darori, a restaurant that will, if asked, guide you back to your riad. Cafe Fès at the Jardin des Biehn is also a peaceful place for lunch or dinner, and just around the corner from there is the Hidden Garden. While you can't go wrong with a tagine, do try the chicken pastilla, which is a delicious local speciality.

For those who love Moorish architecture and patina, I highly recommend visiting the Palace Glaoui and Palace Dar Moqri, and Cherratin Medersa School. It's always best to go early, although the two Palaces remain relatively quiet throughout the day. Behind hidden doors are courtyards and a world that is hidden from the street, but behind those doors and quiet alleyways there are some gems to discover.

I also strongly recommend walking around the outskirts of the city to the Marinid Tombs, and even to the public garden ‘Jnan Sbil’, not forgetting to walk past the magnificent gates of the Royal Palace. Further afield, if time allows, you can visit the Roman site of Volubilis and the city of Meknes, both around two hours by car from Fès.

A weekend in Morocco is always a good idea, but don't forget Fès when planning a trip. It's often overlooked for Marrakech and Tangier, but has plenty to offer the discerning visitor, particularly in winter – a wonderful way to blow away the January blues.